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Gas dryer will run but not heat. I have followed the troubleshooting tips but am having no luck. I am getting no voltage a the ignitor when the dryer is running on a heat cycle. There is also no voltage present at the thermal fuse or the cycling thermostat but there is voltage at the thermal cut-out. Motor runs fine. What would be upstream of these components that would cause this behavior? It is interesting to note that there does show voltage to the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat when the dryer is plugged in but not running.
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Originally Posted by: mcclr  Gas dryer will run but not heat. I have followed the troubleshooting tips but am having no luck. I am getting no voltage a the ignitor when the dryer is running on a heat cycle. There is also no voltage present at the thermal fuse or the cycling thermostat but there is voltage at the thermal cut-out. Motor runs fine. What would be upstream of these components that would cause this behavior? It is interesting to note that there does show voltage to the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat when the dryer is plugged in but not running. Take your volt meter, and put it on ohms, and unplug the dryer, and know test all those conponents. The one, that has no continuity will be your problem. Tom ApplianceEducator.com - Parts
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Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy Take your volt meter, and put it on ohms, and unplug the dryer, and know test all those conponents. The one, that has no continuity will be your problem. Tom ApplianceEducator.com - Parts Thanks for the reply. I had already used the ohmmeter to check continuity of the thermal fuse, the thermal cut-out and the cycling thermostat. The first two checked out fine but the cycling thermostat showed continuity only on the two larger outer terminals. The two smaller inner terminals were open. I clipped the two smaller terminals together and started the dryer again. This made no difference. Other than these three parts, is there anything else in the circuit that could be causing the problem? Also, I have removed the belt from the motor so that I could make the tests with the front off and the drum would not turn. I assume this would not cause additional problems. I cannot find a schematic for this dryer. Using a non-contact voltage detector, I find voltage at all of the components with the dryer plugged in but not running. When I start the dryer, no voltage is detected except at the thermal cut-out. Is this normal?
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Originally Posted by: mcclr Thanks for the reply. I had already used the ohmmeter to check continuity of the thermal fuse, the thermal cut-out and the cycling thermostat. The first two checked out fine but the cycling thermostat showed continuity only on the two larger outer terminals. The two smaller inner terminals were open. I clipped the two smaller terminals together and started the dryer again. This made no difference. Other than these three parts, is there anything else in the circuit that could be causing the problem? Also, I have removed the belt from the motor so that I could make the tests with the front off and the drum would not turn. I assume this would not cause additional problems. I cannot find a schematic for this dryer. Using a non-contact voltage detector, I find voltage at all of the components with the dryer plugged in but not running. When I start the dryer, no voltage is detected except at the thermal cut-out. Is this normal? Allright here's the gig. So you have the drum out, so you can view everything. I guess, you have the door switch still plugged in, or jumped out. So here is how we need to diagnose this. First thing is if the glow coil comes on and no gas, replace the coils on the gas valve. If the glow coil does not come on, it will either be the glow coil, the white thermal fuse in the back, or the flame sensor. Lets start at the flame sensor. Take the 2 wires off the flame sensor, and put the terminal ends together, and put some tape around them, so they do not hit metal, and the ends make good contact. Then plug the dryer in, and see if the glow coil come on, and you get ignition, Then replace the flame sensor. If the coil does not come on, leave the flame sensor jumped out, and go to the back, and jump out the white thermal fuse. Jump it out the same way, you did the flame sensor, then plug it back in and see if the glow coil comes on. If not, the glow coil is the problem. Let me know what you find. If by jumping anything out, and the dryer works, DO NOT RUN the dryer with any conponent jumped out. This is for testing reasons only. Sometimes, the meter does not tell all. Do this, and we will get to the root of the problem. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy Allright here's the gig. So you have the drum out, so you can view everything. I guess, you have the door switch still plugged in, or jumped out. So here is how we need to diagnose this. First thing is if the glow coil comes on and no gas, replace the coils on the gas valve. If the glow coil does not come on, it will either be the glow coil, the white thermal fuse in the back, or the flame sensor. Lets start at the flame sensor. Take the 2 wires off the flame sensor, and put the terminal ends together, and put some tape around them, so they do not hit metal, and the ends make good contact. Then plug the dryer in, and see if the glow coil come on, and you get ignition, Then replace the flame sensor. If the coil does not come on, leave the flame sensor jumped out, and go to the back, and jump out the white thermal fuse. Jump it out the same way, you did the flame sensor, then plug it back in and see if the glow coil comes on. If not, the glow coil is the problem. Let me know what you find. If by jumping anything out, and the dryer works, DO NOT RUN the dryer with any conponent jumped out. This is for testing reasons only. Sometimes, the meter does not tell all. Do this, and we will get to the root of the problem. Tom ApplianceEducator.com Thank you for your help, Tom. I jumped the thermal cut-out and got the igniter to glow and the flame to start. I should have been able to figure this out for the great troubleshooting tips that are provided on this site but I must have misread one of the tests. The dryer circuit is really pretty simple. I made a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end and use it to jump around the components. This showed which component was bad. I could have also done it with the ohm meter if I had done it properly. When I re-tested it after removing it, it showed open. A simple continuity test as suggested on this site would have gotten to the problem very fast had I done it correctly. Thanks again.
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Originally Posted by: mcclr Thank you for your help, Tom. I jumped the thermal cut-out and got the igniter to glow and the flame to start. I should have been able to figure this out for the great troubleshooting tips that are provided on this site but I must have misread one of the tests. The dryer circuit is really pretty simple. I made a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end and use it to jump around the components. This showed which component was bad. I could have also done it with the ohm meter if I had done it properly. When I re-tested it after removing it, it showed open. A simple continuity test as suggested on this site would have gotten to the problem very fast had I done it correctly.
Thanks again. Good Job. At least it is not costing you an arm and a leg for the repair. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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