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The motor to gearbox drive coupler failed as it has done in the past. The motor was turning but the gearbox input shaft was not. I replaced the bad coupling with a new one and then hooked the washer back up to voltage and no features work but it will fill the tub to the appropiate load size with water. I have voltage being delivered to the motor electrical junction bulkhead connector and the lid swtich is working properly. After it fills with water it will not do anything. What conncection or switch would be sensitive to moving the washer around to a place to work on it to change the coupler that could have caused this? Everything was working before I moved it and changed the coupler. I opened the gearbox and everything is moving freely. Is there a schematic available online?
thanks
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You have 120vac across the motor connector blue and white/black wires and the motor makes no sound at all? Does the timer advance on it's own after the tub is full? Does it drain/spin? The wiring diagram should be on the inside back panel upper left.
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Yes there is full voltage at the blue and white/black stripe wire and the motor makes no noise. The tub does not drain or spin and when the tub is full the timer does not advance. The only function u can make work is to fill the tub. It all happened after I moved the unit and layed it down. Is it possible something is not telling the timer to advance or the motor to spin?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are using a multimeter to take the voltage measurement, not one of those non-contact voltage detectors, correct? One meter probe on blue, one on white/black? Unplug the motor connector, check continuity at motor between blue and white/black as well as between blue and white. Should be about 2.3 ohms for both. Between white and white/black should be 0.0 ohms. Unplug washer, check continuty between power plug neutral (wide blade) and white wire of motor harness connector, should be 0.0 ohms.
Eric
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Using a multimeter to take the voltage measurement each the blue and white/black stripe wire have 120volts by grounding the other probe and the switch on spin. With one meter probe on blue, one on white/black at the same time I have no volts and have continuity. With the motor connector unplugged continuity at motor between blue and white/black is 1.5 ohms and between blue and white is 0.2 ohms. Between white and white/black is 0.0 ohms. Washer unplugged continuty between power plug neutral and white wire of motor harness connector is 0.0 ohms
thanks Bob
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
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If you have 120vac on the blue wire and the white/black wire with respect to ground, you are experiencing an open neutral. Check the connections at the motor overload switch. These are quick disconnect connectors. Pull them off and check for burnt connection or broken wire. Eric Thermal switch connections
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/15/2013(UTC) Posts: 10
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That was the problem - a open neutral. The one plug crimp on the white wire had pulled from the wire on the side I could not see. Re-crimped it and working perfect. When I pulled the motor and gear box out i must have strained the wire and connector. Thanks alot for all the help and appreciate the quick response and knowledge! Bob
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