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chenrezig12  
#1 Posted : Thursday, August 4, 2011 2:10:46 PM(UTC)
chenrezig12

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Joined: 8/4/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1

There is just nothing. Are there fuses beside the thermal fuse? What about the door switch. Do they go out a lot? What specific things would just kill the power? Checked box out side fuses were fine.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, August 5, 2011 4:16:42 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEC5000PQ0 29" ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
Are there fuses beside the thermal fuse?[/COLOR]
Yes. There is a thermal cut off but it is located on the heater and will not effect the unit starting.

I am assuming then that you have checked the thermal fuse on the blower.

What about the door switch. Do they go out a lot?
This could be the problem. They do not go out a lot but that does not mean yours is OK.
First check that the switch is being activated when the door is closed.
Next unplug the unit and check the switch with a meter.
If OK, then check the push to start switch.

What specific things would just kill the power? Checked box out side fuses were fine.
Could also be the motor itself, the timer contacts BU/BK, start switch.

Note just because the fuse look OK does not mean that power is getting to the unit.

Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral (motor voltage) and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
LEC5000.pdf (333kb) downloaded 3 time(s).
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