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my dryer has no power to it at all. ive checked the recepticle and the thermal fuse and the door switch along with the cord and where it is wired to the dryer. the only part ive found that might be defective is the cycling thermostat over by the thermal fuse. could this possibly be the problem?
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Originally Posted by: rob2010  my dryer has no power to it at all. ive checked the recepticle and the thermal fuse and the door switch along with the cord and where it is wired to the dryer. the only part ive found that might be defective is the cycling thermostat over by the thermal fuse. could this possibly be the problem? When you say "it has no power to it at all" do you mean there is no power at the cord or that the dryer won't start? If the dryer has power up to it, there are several things that could stop it from starting. First I'd start by checking the white thermal fuse next to the cycling thermostat. Both should have continuity out of circuit. Then I would check the push to start switch and the door switch for continuity. Move on to the timer and motor centrifugal switch. Along the way visually inspect all the wires and terminals for heat damage. BTW the cycling t-stat is only to control the heat, but I always check it while I'm there.
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Originally Posted by: ThatGuy When you say "it has no power to it at all" do you mean there is no power at the cord or that the dryer won't start?
If the dryer has power up to it, there are several things that could stop it from starting. First I'd start by checking the white thermal fuse next to the cycling thermostat. Both should have continuity out of circuit. Then I would check the push to start switch and the door switch for continuity. Move on to the timer and motor centrifugal switch. Along the way visually inspect all the wires and terminals for heat damage.
BTW the cycling t-stat is only to control the heat, but I always check it while I'm there. Ok heres what I have discovered. At the recepticle I have 247 volts at the outside prong holes and I have 125 and 122 when testing the two legs seperately as it should be.
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Originally Posted by: rob2010 Ok heres what I have discovered. At the recepticle I have 247 volts at the outside prong holes and I have 125 and 122 when testing the two legs seperately as it should be. Ok here is todays riddle. I checked the recepticle for power and Im getting 247/125/122 as I should. I also checked the cord while it is not wired to the dryer and got the same reading. But when I wire it to the dryer either to the block or direct I get 247 on the ends and 52 to the left and middle and 198 to the right and middle. Someone please explain that one to me. Im getting real tired of clothes line dried towels!!
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Did this unit used to run OK at this location?
Is it a 3 wire or a 4 wire hook up?
Sounds like you have a problem with the Neutral. |
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yep the dryer was bought after I moved in here. Ive lived here about 15yrs. The previous dryer worked fine it was just old. This one had been working fine for 5 years. When you say neutral, you mean from the wall or the cord or something inside the dryer? It is a 3 wire hook up
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When you say neutral, you mean from the wall or the cord or something inside the dryer? It is a 3 wire hook up
Could be at any one of these areas.
I would start with the dryer checking that the terminals are tight and non-corroded. Also that the ground strap from the Neutral to the machine frame is OK.
Then check the wall receptacle.
Then the electrical box.
I do not know how much electrical experience you have so just a reminder to be very careful when doing this as 240 volts is lethal!!!
Most of the above can be done with the power off.
Have you had problems with any other circuits in the hose as the power balance seems to be off but this may just be how the power is in your area.
You may want to check it in the electrical panel. |
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Originally Posted by: denman When you say neutral, you mean from the wall or the cord or something inside the dryer? It is a 3 wire hook up
Could be at any one of these areas.
I would start with the dryer checking that the terminals are tight and non-corroded. Also that the ground strap from the Neutral to the machine frame is OK.
Then check the wall receptacle.
Then the electrical box.
I do not know how much electrical experience you have so just a reminder to be very careful when doing this as 240 volts is lethal!!!
Most of the above can be done with the power off.
Have you had problems with any other circuits in the hose as the power balance seems to be off but this may just be how the power is in your area.
You may want to check it in the electrical panel. No I haven't had any problems anywhere else. So maybe take the ground strap off make sure its getting good contact and go from there. I know the terminals are tight. What am I looking for at the recepticle now? Do you want me to pull the cover and check those connections?
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[COLOR="Blue"]So maybe take the ground strap off make sure its getting good contact and go from there.[/COLOR]
Do not permanently remove the ground strap as this can lead to a very dangerous situation.
But I would undo the connections and check them.
[COLOR="Blue"]I know the terminals are tight.[/COLOR]
They can be tight but still have corrosion. Not common but can happen.
Also another thought I just had is if your wiring is aluminum, this can cause problems over the long term.
[COLOR="Blue"]What am I looking for at the recepticle now? Do you want me to pull the cover and check those connections?[/COLOR]
Yes flip the breaker off and check the connections. I would actually remove them, clean the wires with fine emery cloth and re-connect them.
You are checking for any discoloration or pitting or any signs of the connection heating up (melted/discolored insulation)
Also another thought I just had is if your wiring is aluminum, this can cause problems over the long term. |
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When you say you have checked, does this mean with a meter? If so, then you are going to have to start tracing wiring to the timer and out from it, but first check the push to start switch.
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