Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Ok, here's the story: A few days ago the dryer quit heating. It would come on and spin, but blow out cold air. I pulled the vent hose and it was clogged up pretty good, so i took it off and cleaned it out, pulled the vent shaft out and cleaned it out as well. Did a little troubleshooting and found that the high-limit cutoff was fried so I ordered a new kit. Here's a picture of what I got:  Replaced both and started the dryer up, I had heat!!! Ran for about 3 minutes and then stopped. Now it will not turn on at all. If I bypass the thermal fuse it runs and I get heat, so I know the fuse is blown. My question is, what happened or what should I check to know why the fuse blew? Before the cutoff fried before I never had a problem with cycling or anything.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2013(UTC)
Posts: 916
|
First off ohm/continuity check the new parts before you put them in.......they should read infinity both those cutoffs you have in the picture brand new parts are sometimes defective to begin with. Depends on if it's gas or electric. The smaller thermal cut off or limiter usually blows when there's a blockage in the line. Best way to check to see if you have a air vent blockage issue is disconnect the hose from the wall and run it for awhile with heat.....if the cut off doesn't blow you know it's blockage in your air vent leading out of your house. If venting isn't an issue if it's gas it may be a possible sticking coil and if that's not the case take a thermometer and put it in the exhaust/lint trap area dryer max temps should be only 190-200 max anything past that may blow the thermal fuse or cut offs. Next thing to check is to make sure your operating fuse (typically a 4 wire connection next to thermal fuse on more then likely the blower housing) One side should read infinity and the other should read 0 if you do a continuity test if you don't get those readings then you have a bad operating thermostat that's allowing the unit to run to hot and blowing your cutoffs. Your unit may also have a thermister in replacement of a operating thermostat which essentially is the same thing but you didn't mention a model number. The picture you have does not consist of the operating thermostats those just look like burn chamber cut off therms. Good luck
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Sorry for the lack of info, funny the things we forget to mention.
Its an electric unit, I'd love to give a model number but I can't find one ANYWHERE. I've looked inside the door, on the back panel, on the back panel of the timer unit, inside the back of the dryer, everywhere!
The parts are supposedly a thermal cutoff and a high-limit thermostat.
I tested the parts to ensure they worked, the first set I got didn't work so I made sure to test these first.
I cleaned the ventilation system completely, taking the duct that goes from the lint filter to the exit off and cleaning it out, then I took the aluminum flex hose off, straightened it out and blew it out, visually checking afterwards to ensure no blockage. At first it was blocked off and I'm sure that's why the thermal cutoff blew the first time.
After replacing the cutoff and high-limit thermostat everything ran fine but got really hot, about 3 minutes later it shut off and I couldn't get it to turn back on. I let it sit and cool off and tried again, still nothing.
I then jumped the thermal fuse and everything worked as long as I had the jumper in place, removing it and nothing worked again so I know its the thermal fuse that is blown now.
My question is why did the thermal fuse blow. It appears it could be the thermostat or a grounded element. I don't have an ohm-meter handy to test right now so I'm posting here trying to narrow down what the problems could be or atleast further my knowledge on the internal workings of the dryer.
So, to sum it up, jumping the thermal fuse the dryer works, heating element comes on, it just never appears to turn off and keeps heating up. The dryer was REALLY hot after the few minutes it ran.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2013(UTC)
Posts: 916
|
A grounded element will usually stay hot if the unit is plugged into the wall period irregardless if you have the timer on or off which is dangerous. Ok first it was a thermal cutoff that blew now it's a thermal fuse......They are two different things located in two different parts of the unit so which is it? Both these items blow from either vent blockage or unit getting too hot. Try ohming out the heating element itself and doing a visual inspection and making sure the coils aren't touching the casing. Without a multimeter you can't do anything..........get one 10-15 bucks at the auto parts store.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
The thermal cutoff blew first, I replaced it along with the hi-limit thermostat.
Now the Thermal fuse is blown.
I'll be getting a multimeter tomorrow, I had used my dads to test the parts when I first got them, but will be buying my own to continue testing the dryer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
