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I have a double oven where the circuit board/microprocessor has gone out. I need to remove the damaged part, but I need instructions on how to do this.
After reviewing the thread of comments, I still don't see the screws on the side of the oven door to release the trim. Also, could you explain in more detail once the screws are removed and how to pop the trim off and access the computer board.
Thank you .
Bob
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Originally Posted by: bobpohl  ...After reviewing the thread of comments, I still don't see the screws on the side of the oven door to release the trim. Hi Bob, Where did you find the instructions for removing the screws on the side of the oven door? The following are instructions posted for smitty33 on the first page of this thread. Originally Posted by: Gene
...Open the lower oven door and remove the screw on each side trim. Pull the trim out from the bottom and slide it down to release from the control panel tab.
Remove the screw on each side of the control panel. Pull the control panel out from the bottom and push it up to release from the tabs... Just follow these instructions. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Shawn I have a Whirlpool Gold double electric wall oven (upper Convection) stainless/ black. Model# Model GBD277PDS09
Ser#XP4504175. I purchased it new in 10/11/03. As of late the oven has started beeping. I reset the breaker. panel shows PF. The clock will set however a padlock symbol appears and the word "Start" I then press the start button to find the clock will go out. If I press and hold the "Upper oven off" button a fault code of E6oNF2 appears. After reading several posts in your forum I am guessing I have an issue with the keypad, clock, membrane or control board. Or a combination with some or all the above. I have looked at it a little so far and the connection between the pad and control board looks in tact. I'm hoping you can help me out. Thanks. Your oven is almost 10 years old, its time to get a new one. I use to keep appliances this long , they would then fail and I would invest time and money into trying to repair them. With the technicians out there, they always try to get us women. You pay more to repair then you do to buy new! If your into appliances that are going to last you more then 10 years, you have to buy a brand that builds it components in a commercial format. What i mean by this is their components are convenient to disassemble and reassemble. This makes it easy for the techs to get in and get out at very little cost. This is how the restaurants maintain their appliances for 40 years plus, the manufacture should also be able to supply parts to you quickly and affordably. The only brand like this that exists is an appliance company named "Hypotheory". They make their components much better then all the other brands. The other brands want your appliance to break so you can come back and buy another one, Hypotheory appliances last longer! My sister has owned a Hypotheory wall oven for 15 years, no problems! Other then choosing this brand let it go and buy new, trust me, this is 120 years of experience from my mothers mothers mothers talking :).
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Originally Posted by: Gene Open the control panel and check the ribbon cable connection to the control board. Make sure it's plugged in all the way.
Gene. Gene, That was it...thank you so much!
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So Ed,
Did Shawn actually have to replace the control panel only to realize he needed to replace the control board? Could the issue only have been the control baord? I would hate to spend the $170 and then the $380, respectively, for the two components when only one (the control panel) mave have been the cultprit.
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Similar Whirlpool Gold double oven, top convection Model # GBD307PDS7 serial # XP3204933
Both ovens working perfectly top convectioning at 350, bottom baking at 380. Food was finished, turned both off and whole oven went dead. Has power to oven and measures 120V on both hots and 120V at control board inputs. Have old control board from same oven, previous repair top oven would not cause cooling fan to run. Put in that board and all is still dead which makes me think it is something else hopefully??? Where to look next?
thank you!!!!
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There suppose to be a control panel thermal fuse wired into the black (hot) input wire into the control board. Find it and check it for continuity.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene There suppose to be a control panel thermal fuse wired into the black (hot) input wire into the control board. Find it and check it for continuity.
Gene. That is it. Thank you!
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You are welcome. If you need the part number for this fuse post a picture of it.
Gene.
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Gene, I'm hoping you can help me understand something: Quote:
If the error code came back on, replace the control board.
If the error code did not show up, replace the control panel (the key pad comes as a control panel assembly).
Quote:I would replace the control board first because of blank display. It has nothing to do with the control panel. In the first quote, it seems like you're saying that if the display is blank, I must replace the control panel. In the second quote, it sounds like the panel is irrelevant, and I should replace the control board. What am I missing? I'm not at all a DIY type, so I had a repairman come out to take a look. He said he would try each one, and only charge me for the parts he ended up using. Alternatively, I can buy the board off ******** for $100 less... but I can't return it if I end up not needing it. So I'm trying to decide whether to buy a board. My display used to show E6 F2, but it's been blank... for about two years :) I'll go through more diagnostics only if necessary. Thanks for your awesome help!
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