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JimConlon  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 10:22:01 AM(UTC)
JimConlon

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oven and broiler have stopped working. have puled the burner elements out and tested them for continuity.. they check out fine. i dont know much about electricity (obviously). is there a way to check the continuity of indidual wires , the thermostat (probe) or clock timer? i dont want to break anything so details would be helpful. thanks
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 1:45:47 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Jim,

Check for 120 VAC between the wire connected to the "L2 in" terminal at the clock/timer and any metal part of the oven chassis.

If the reading is incorrect, check the circuit breakers.

If the reading is correct, replace the clock/timer.

- The clock/timer Part number: AP3561834
Part number: AP3561834



Gene.
JimConlon  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 2:30:32 PM(UTC)
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ok, im a beginner here.. i assume im disconnecting the power supply first before i do this right?? also, i assume you are talking about the circuit breakers in the house panel( they have not tripped)
Gene  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 2:39:20 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: JimConlon Go to Quoted Post
...i assume im disconnecting the power supply first before i do this right??...

...also, i assume you are talking about the circuit breakers in the house panel( they have not tripped)...



Yes, you do have to disconnect the power supply before you will start to disassemble the range. You can use a crocodiles to connect the voltmeter test probes to the wire and chassis. Make sure they are not touching each other and/or anything else around. Reconnect the power supply to run the test.

Yes, I meant those circuit breakers. They still can be bad even if a visual test did not show anything wrong.

Gene.
JimConlon  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 3:14:51 PM(UTC)
JimConlon

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ok, havent tried it yet as im the only one here and dont have the crocodiles you mentioned.. trying to figure out how i can do this with just two hands. but the top burners all work without issue and the other functions of the clock seem to work (except for the bake and broil) would this not indicate im getting 120VAC ?? sorry for all the questions, but as i said im real new at this
Gene  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 3:43:39 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Jim,

Very likely the problem is a bad clock/timer. So if you do not feel comfortable with this test, just replace it.

There are two 120 VAC legs connected to the clock/timer. The L1 & L2. L1 supplies the power for the clock itself and provides the one power leg to the Bake & Broil heating elements while L2 provides the second power leg to the heating elements through the clock relays.

Gene.
JimConlon  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 3:48:29 PM(UTC)
JimConlon

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thank you for all your help. i suspected the clock was the issue but wasnt positive. im going to check resistance between the l1 and l2 just as another way of convincing myself. thank you agian gene
Gene  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, December 13, 2011 3:57:39 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: JimConlon Go to Quoted Post
...im going to check resistance between the l1 and l2...


Such test would not do any good.

Gene.
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