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I have the same problem. I searched your database, but I couldn't find my refrigerator in it. Its a Montgomery Ward Signature Frostless 18. The model number is HMG1849482A. The freezer works well, but no cold air gets into the refrigerator. Your customer service representative said I needed part number AP3109443. I'm familiar neither with that part, how to use it, nor why I need it. When I asked these questions, he simply referred me to this forum. Is there a source of information where I can read about it?
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kenmore model # 10644563600 - cant find info on this side by side break down diagrams. - same issue cold freezer warm refrigerator I cant find the break down diagrams.
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Originally Posted by: GWHinLA  Update: I had a service tech out whose off the cuff diagnosis was low Freon and probable need to replace the compressor for $1800. This didn't sound right, so I unplugged the fridge for 3 days. This produced some water on the floor, but not a large amount. After plugging back in, the freezer was at -14 and the fresh food section was at +28 within 6 hours at mid-scale settings. This suggests to me that the refrigeration equipment is ok. So, I'm not sure where to go from here. Do I just wait and see, or is there some way to pinpoint the original problem so it won't recur? As long as it's working I do not see what can be done. Watch it closely and post if anything will go wrong. Gene.
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Hi Gene
I have somewhat similar problem: GE GSH22SGPB SS ice cream in the reezer not freezing, frosting on the back inside wall of the freezer dept. Went holes were dusty ===> vacoomed them all. Compressor warm to the touch. fan beside is blowing. Tube coming out of the compressor is cool. Fridge never stops running (even when I set the freezer to 1, except when set to 0) Is this a defroster problem or something else?
Thank you!
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For Artict, You have refrigerator system problems for a pro to look at. Freezer temp should get down to zero or less.
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Gene,
I’ve tried following your instructions on cold freezer, warm refrigerator, but I’m somewhat unsure of how to go forward due to different names of things on the exploded parts diagram I’ve linked to on your site, and the schematic wiring diagram that came with the fridge, and the names you give things in your troubleshooting instructions.
You recommend to first check the
1) defrost timer,
2) then check the continuity of the defrost heater
3) and if 1 and 2 are good, then replace the defrost thermostat.
Here’s my problem. I have a Jenn Air Model #JCD2389DT. I clicked through and pulled up the break down diagram from your site as you recommended, but the diagram doesn’t indicate there is a defrost timer or a defrost thermostat, at least by those names. The break down diagram list #8, a control with a rod that opens the damper door and lets air in from the freezer compartment; #3, a temperature control assembly; and # 13, an adaptive defrost board.
To confuse matters just a bit more, I found a schematic wiring diagram in a plastic baggie in the freezer section and it has boxes indicating that the fridge has a temperature control, a defrost thermostat, a defrost heater and an adaptive defrost.
On inspection, I can’t find any screw on any of the above control units to put a screw driver in and manually activate the defrost heater as you recommended in step #1 of your troubleshooting guide.
So, I jumped to your step #2 and checked the continuity of the heater element. It was greater than 2 on the Rx10 scale of my meter. The aforementioned schematic wiring diagram lists under the box for “defrost thermostat” that “for diagnostic continuity check 240k Ohms,” and indicates the thermostat being just ahead of the defrost heater, so I’m not sure if that 240 also would apply to the heater, but if it does, the heating element appears to test okay.
Now, for your step #3, what is the defrost thermostat on my model? The schematic wiring diagram that came with the fridge shows there is supposed to be a defrost thermostat between the temperature control and the lines running to the defrost heater and the adaptive defrost, but I don’t see one labeled as such on the break down diagram from your site, nor can I tell what might be one from oberservation.
Got any wisdom on my Jenn Air?
Regards,
Joe
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Originally Posted by: liatte kenmore model # 10644563600 - cant find info on this side by side break down diagrams. - same issue cold freezer warm refrigerator I cant find the break down diagrams. There is no defrost timer in your refrigerator. The defrost cycle is operated by the Adaptive Defrost Control (#6 on the diagram). You can enter defrost cycle test mode as described in the Tech sheet. I would also test the baffle module. Post the results. Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Techie Hi Gene
I have somewhat similar problem: GE GSH22SGPB SS ice cream in the reezer not freezing, frosting on the back inside wall of the freezer dept. Went holes were dusty ===> vacoomed them all. Compressor warm to the touch. fan beside is blowing. Tube coming out of the compressor is cool. Fridge never stops running (even when I set the freezer to 1, except when set to 0) Is this a defroster problem or something else?
Thank you! Sounds like there is a problem with the defrost system. Perform the troubleshooting as described earlier in this thread (page 3) in the reply addressed to bohemian and post the results. Here are the breakdown diagrams and replacement parts for the GE refrigerator Model GSH22SGPBSS
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: jconn33 Gene,
I’ve tried following your instructions on cold freezer, warm refrigerator, but I’m somewhat unsure of how to go forward due to different names of things on the exploded parts diagram I’ve linked to on your site, and the schematic wiring diagram that came with the fridge, and the names you give things in your troubleshooting instructions.
You recommend to first check the
1)defrost timer,
2)then check the continuity of the defrost heater
3)and if 1 and 2 are good, then replace the defrost thermostat.
Here’s my problem. I have a Jenn Air Model #JCD2389DT. I clicked through and pulled up the break down diagram from your site as you recommended, but the diagram doesn’t indicate there is a defrost timer or a defrost thermostat, at least by those names. The break down diagram list #8, a control with a rod that opens the damper door and lets air in from the freezer compartment; #3, a temperature control assembly; and # 13, an adaptive defrost board.
To confuse matters just a bit more, I found a schematic wiring diagram in a plastic baggie in the freezer section and it has boxes indicating that the fridge has a temperature control, a defrost thermostat, a defrost heater and an adaptive defrost.
On inspection, I can’t find any screw on any of the above control units to put a screw driver in and manually activate the defrost heater as you recommended in step #1 of your troubleshooting guide.
So, I jumped to your step #2 and checked the continuity of the heater element. It was greater than 2 on the Rx10 scale of my meter. The aforementioned schematic wiring diagram lists under the box for “defrost thermostat” that “for diagnostic continuity check 240k Ohms,” and indicates the thermostat being just ahead of the defrost heater, so I’m not sure if that 240 also would apply to the heater, but if it does, the heating element appears to test okay.
Now, for your step #3, what is the defrost thermostat on my model? The schematic wiring diagram that came with the fridge shows there is supposed to be a defrost thermostat between the temperature control and the lines running to the defrost heater and the adaptive defrost, but I don’t see one labeled as such on the break down diagram from your site, nor can I tell what might be one from oberservation.
Got any wisdom on my Jenn Air?
Regards,
Joe Hi Joe, As you can see on the picture bellow the defrost thermostat is a part of the heater assembly and does not come or shown on the diagram separate.  You have to unplug the harness plug and then check the heater and the thermostat for continuity. Be sure the thermostat is really cold at that time. The heater should show some resistance while the thermostat should read close to 0 Ohms. If there is nothing wrong then the problem is a bad Adaptive Defrost Control (#13 on the diagram). - The adaptive defrost control Part number: AP4070403
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Gene,
Gotcha. And thanks a lot for your help. I'm going to let the box get good and cold before I check the thermostat again just to be sure, then I'll let you know. You must get great satsfaction from doing this, at least I hope so. Just on this thread alone you've helped hundreds of people. I am very much obliged.
Joe
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