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Gene  
#611 Posted : Tuesday, September 29, 2009 11:55:24 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: alank Go to Quoted Post
Hi Gene:

We got no sizzling sound when we tested the timer. We tried to use an OH meter to test the heater and the thermostat but we are unsure where to place the test probes. We disconnected one wire off of the heater and using a digital OH meter we didn't know where to place the probes or what OH setting to turn the dial to. Can you break that process down a little further. It's the Oh meter process which is stumbling us. We uinderstand the logic but not the actual placement of the probes. Can you provide a visual or step by steps of where to place them. Your guide does not speak to refridgerators so we are stumped....argh....it should be so simple but we can't figure it out. We completely removed the timer and the heater-can't you advise how to test resistence on them directly?

Thanks!!!


The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

Gene.
Gene  
#612 Posted : Tuesday, September 29, 2009 12:01:40 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: ChinhHien Go to Quoted Post
I am following your instruction but can not located defrost timmer on my GE (Model #GSH22GRESS) Refrigerator.


There is no defrost timer in your refrigerator. All functions are operated by the main control board. You can find the complete troubleshooting instructions in the reply addressed to bohemian earlier in this thread (page 3).

The model number you posted is incomplete or incorrect. Verify and repost it.

Gene.
jdr12345  
#613 Posted : Wednesday, September 30, 2009 7:16:40 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Sorry for the delay.

Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how freely the fan blade is turning. If it turns hard or there is no continuity between the motor terminals then the motor is the culprit. The part number for the motor is correct.

- The evaporator fan motor assembly Part number: AP3139953
Part number: AP3139953



Gene.


Hi Gene,

OK, I've got the evap fan motor replaced. I can now see, hear and feel the fan working. The fridge is still not getting cold but the freezer is. Please advise. I have a Kenmore Coldspot 106.60872990
Gene  
#614 Posted : Thursday, October 1, 2009 4:34:06 PM(UTC)
Gene

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It should take about 24 hours to cool the refrigerator down to the correct temperature.

Make sure the damper opens properly.

Gene.
jdr12345  
#615 Posted : Friday, October 2, 2009 7:53:24 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene,

It has been 24 hrs. What and where are the damper? I may also need to replace that. Do have a part number/price?
Gene  
#616 Posted : Friday, October 2, 2009 12:41:44 PM(UTC)
Gene

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The refrigerator cools down with the cold air coming from the freezer through the air tower, air diffuser and air damper (#23, #24, #26 & #9 on the diagram). The air flow can be adjusted by turning the damper knob (#34). Possible it's not broken and just has to be adjusted properly.

Gene.
henryjiang18  
#617 Posted : Friday, October 2, 2009 7:52:55 PM(UTC)
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I have this problem about a year, I had to power it off for 24 hours and then connect. But after a couple months the problem comes back again, a lot of frost in freezer and the air flow to the refrigerator is blocked, so the freezer is cold, but the fridge is warm. Mine is Kenmore 106.57072601, and I could not find diagram for that model. My neighbor has a different one and had similar problem, but fixed it for good. What he told me was that there should be some kind of "pipe" that allows water to flow out of the freezer compartment after defrosting, and be evaporated. He said the problem occurred because that "pipe" is filled with ice and then water can not flow out. He googled and found an article about his model and about the fix, what he did was that he located that pipe and pour a little bit hot water to melt a little ice in the "pipe", and do it again and again until all of the ice in the "pipe" was melt and he heard a sound of the "pipe" being completely un-blocked and water can flow out freely. Since then his refridge has never had that problem again.

I would like to locate that pipe in mine, but could not find the diagram.

Help!!! Please!!!!
Gene  
#618 Posted : Friday, October 2, 2009 8:31:21 PM(UTC)
Gene

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I do not think the problem with your refrigerator is a frozen drain. More likely there is a faulty defrost system.

Remove the rear panel in the freezer and locate the defrost heater (#33 on the diagram) and the defrost bi-metal (#6 on the diagram). Check both parts for continuity (the defrost bi-metal must be cold at that time). Post the results.

Gene.
henryjiang18  
#619 Posted : Friday, October 2, 2009 8:41:00 PM(UTC)
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Gene: Thanks a lot for your quick response, how to check continuity? Actually I even do not know what "continuity" means. Just in case, please let me know where I can find the frozen drain even though it is less likely to be the problem.

Best Regards
Henry
:) :confused:
Gene  
#620 Posted : Saturday, October 3, 2009 3:56:42 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Henry,

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

The drain hole is under the evaporator in the freezer. Your neighbors refrigerator more likely is a top mounted freezer design and yours is a side-by-side. A frozen drain in your refrigerator would not cause a frost build up freezer - just ice on the floor.

Gene.
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