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jackief288  
#21 Posted : Monday, January 24, 2011 3:49:33 PM(UTC)
jackief288

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The wiring harness pops out. I used a flat head screwdriver and pressed down until it cleared the area it locked in. The other side, on the back of the freezer, I helf the back while I squeezed both sides and pulled gently. It took a liitle time, but it came off eventually.:)
mickeyt  
#22 Posted : Monday, January 24, 2011 6:15:11 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jackief288 Go to Quoted Post
The wiring harness pops out. I used a flat head screwdriver and pressed down until it cleared the area it locked in. The other side, on the back of the freezer, I helf the back while I squeezed both sides and pulled gently. It took a liitle time, but it came off eventually.:)

Thanks! I'll see if that works!
JodyW  
#23 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 3:04:37 PM(UTC)
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I have a Kenmore Elite M# 10657706701, Ice maker not getting wayer, The inlet tube was froze up, thawed i out but still not filling with water, Water despencer works..I took module apart, the contacts on the board that the heater clicks into are burnt, heater works and I put 120 v directly to motoe and it works...The IF light...when door is ioen it supposed to flash right? when door is closed is light supposed to be off or on continous I think the module needs replaced due to the contact points for the heater but would this keep the unit from turning on the water Valve
Also the LED is puzzling, when door is open it blinks, if I close the little flap so LED isnt blocked with door still open light is solid, with LED flap closed and I turn door light off LED goes off, one time I did this..I duct taped led door closed so no obstruction and taped door switch closed and watched LED..nothing for about 3 minutes then it started blinking and kept blinking for about 5 minutes, then I covered LED light ..it still kept blimnking, I took tape off door switch and light went solid, I can not simulate this again..with door switch closed and led unostructed no ld light at all until I cover led eye then it will blink but ice maker during all of this did nothing and no water came into IM
Gene  
#24 Posted : Thursday, March 15, 2012 11:13:01 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Jody,

Sorry for the delay. Per your description sounds like the ice maker is the culprit. The rate of success on ice makers repair is very low and such repair can be more expensive than a new ice maker. That's why I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker.

Also you did mention the frozen inlet tube. It can be caused by a bad water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator.

- The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
Part number: AP3182733



- The water inlet valve Part number: AP4327602
Part number: AP4327602



Gene.
JodyW  
#25 Posted : Friday, March 16, 2012 7:07:34 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for getting back with me..after reviewing all the posts on here and doing my own diagnostics I came up with the same solution, I ordered a new ice maker from appliancepro and it works great..not sure why the fill tube was drozen up unless the Ice Maker malfunctioned and kept the valve on to long but Valve is workng properly at this time.
Thabnks again..
Jody
Gene  
#26 Posted : Friday, March 16, 2012 1:44:52 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome Jody. I'm glad it's up and running.

Gene.
boingolover  
#27 Posted : Sunday, July 29, 2012 11:03:50 AM(UTC)
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I'm having similar issues to those described in this thread. Water in door works, the motor to move the ice into the dispenser works, but ice is no longer being made. We have a Whirlpool ED5VHGXML12A , manufactured 12/2005. No water moves into the mold, and the lever never moves to break the ice loose. I have checked for clogging in the tube, and it does not look to be clogged. I have checked that there is 120vac between L & N, but I haven't tried jumpering any of other test points because I wasn't sure what a safe way of doing so is. Also, it looks like the wiring harness is molded into the side of the refrigerator, is this true? or is it just a really stubborn connector?

What should I try from here?
Simon / APP Team  
#28 Posted : Monday, July 30, 2012 11:23:31 AM(UTC)
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Hi.

To check if this is the bad icemaker versus the water inlet valve switch around the electrical plugs at the water valve and press the water lever at the dispenser.
If the icemaker fills up - replace it

Part number: W10190965
Part number: W10190965


If not - replace the water valve Part number: W10408179
Part number: W10408179


Here are the breakdown diagrams Replacement parts for Whirlpool ED5VHGXML12 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.
boingolover  
#29 Posted : Monday, July 30, 2012 4:39:58 PM(UTC)
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I swapped the leads on the water valve, and the icemaker filled up. Before I buy the replacement ice maker, should I test the fusible link / thermal fuse, assuming mine has one? It looks like mine does, but I'm not sure where the black wire terminates into the control module (haven't taken it apart yet). Also not sure how the wiring harness comes off.

Thanks for the advice so far!
Gene  
#30 Posted : Monday, July 30, 2012 4:48:49 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: boingolover Go to Quoted Post
...Before I buy the replacement ice maker, should I test the fusible link / thermal fuse, assuming mine has one?...


I don't think you should do it for two reasons:

1. The new ice maker comes with the new wire harness.

2. You wrote
Quote:
...I have checked that there is 120vac between L & N...
That means there is nothing wrong with the fuse.

Gene.

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