Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/26/2010(UTC) Posts: 6
|
The wiring harness pops out. I used a flat head screwdriver and pressed down until it cleared the area it locked in. The other side, on the back of the freezer, I helf the back while I squeezed both sides and pulled gently. It took a liitle time, but it came off eventually.:)
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/23/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: jackief288 The wiring harness pops out. I used a flat head screwdriver and pressed down until it cleared the area it locked in. The other side, on the back of the freezer, I helf the back while I squeezed both sides and pulled gently. It took a liitle time, but it came off eventually.:) Thanks! I'll see if that works!
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 2
|
I have a Kenmore Elite M# 10657706701, Ice maker not getting wayer, The inlet tube was froze up, thawed i out but still not filling with water, Water despencer works..I took module apart, the contacts on the board that the heater clicks into are burnt, heater works and I put 120 v directly to motoe and it works...The IF light...when door is ioen it supposed to flash right? when door is closed is light supposed to be off or on continous I think the module needs replaced due to the contact points for the heater but would this keep the unit from turning on the water Valve Also the LED is puzzling, when door is open it blinks, if I close the little flap so LED isnt blocked with door still open light is solid, with LED flap closed and I turn door light off LED goes off, one time I did this..I duct taped led door closed so no obstruction and taped door switch closed and watched LED..nothing for about 3 minutes then it started blinking and kept blinking for about 5 minutes, then I covered LED light ..it still kept blimnking, I took tape off door switch and light went solid, I can not simulate this again..with door switch closed and led unostructed no ld light at all until I cover led eye then it will blink but ice maker during all of this did nothing and no water came into IM
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Hi Jody, Sorry for the delay. Per your description sounds like the ice maker is the culprit. The rate of success on ice makers repair is very low and such repair can be more expensive than a new ice maker. That's why I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker. Also you did mention the frozen inlet tube. It can be caused by a bad water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator. - The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 2
|
Hi Gene, Thanks for getting back with me..after reviewing all the posts on here and doing my own diagnostics I came up with the same solution, I ordered a new ice maker from appliancepro and it works great..not sure why the fill tube was drozen up unless the Ice Maker malfunctioned and kept the valve on to long but Valve is workng properly at this time. Thabnks again.. Jody
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
You are welcome Jody. I'm glad it's up and running.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/29/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
|
I'm having similar issues to those described in this thread. Water in door works, the motor to move the ice into the dispenser works, but ice is no longer being made. We have a Whirlpool ED5VHGXML12A , manufactured 12/2005. No water moves into the mold, and the lever never moves to break the ice loose. I have checked for clogging in the tube, and it does not look to be clogged. I have checked that there is 120vac between L & N, but I haven't tried jumpering any of other test points because I wasn't sure what a safe way of doing so is. Also, it looks like the wiring harness is molded into the side of the refrigerator, is this true? or is it just a really stubborn connector?
What should I try from here?
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
|
Hi. To check if this is the bad icemaker versus the water inlet valve switch around the electrical plugs at the water valve and press the water lever at the dispenser. If the icemaker fills up - replace it Part number: W10190965
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/29/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
|
I swapped the leads on the water valve, and the icemaker filled up. Before I buy the replacement ice maker, should I test the fusible link / thermal fuse, assuming mine has one? It looks like mine does, but I'm not sure where the black wire terminates into the control module (haven't taken it apart yet). Also not sure how the wiring harness comes off.
Thanks for the advice so far!
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: boingolover ...Before I buy the replacement ice maker, should I test the fusible link / thermal fuse, assuming mine has one?... I don't think you should do it for two reasons: 1. The new ice maker comes with the new wire harness. 2. You wrote Quote:...I have checked that there is 120vac between L & N... That means there is nothing wrong with the fuse. Gene.
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close