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bdr10123@comcast.net  
#11 Posted : Sunday, February 15, 2009 4:32:01 AM(UTC)
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kitchenaid KSRB25FKSS02
Gene  
#12 Posted : Sunday, February 15, 2009 2:33:37 PM(UTC)
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Perform the troubleshooting as described in the Service manual starting with the optics (page 5-1). Post the results.

The part number for the kit of two boards is AP3137510

Gene.
realtyc  
#13 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 10:17:43 AM(UTC)
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Gene, I appear to have the same problem. Where is the feeding tube you speak of /
Gene  
#14 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 2:49:38 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: realtyc Go to Quoted Post
Gene, I appear to have the same problem. Where is the feeding tube you speak of /


It is shown as #269 on the diagram.

Gene.
jackief288  
#15 Posted : Thursday, January 6, 2011 7:04:10 AM(UTC)
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I've recently replaced the primary inlet water valve, the secondary water inlet valve, the ice maker, the defrost timer, which was when I believe my ice maker stopped making ice. This morning I tried to cycle the I/M using a paper clip placing it in "H" and "T"-nothing happened. Now I'm wondering if my wiring harness could be bad or is there something else I'm missing. I've been working on this for a couple of months now due to work and time issues. I even was sent the wrong part, which I kept and just put on (the primary inlet water valve) because I did'nt want to be bothered returning it. My water dispenser is still working fine. I didn't take out the springs in the water lines when I hooked them up to the new secondary water inlet valve. The operator told me this could be the problem, but when I tried to get them out, I couldn't, they got stuck further up the tubes. I know this is'nt a reply or answer to this question, but I couldn't figure out how to ask a question. Thanks in advance for any help anyone may have. By the way, I have an Amana ARB2557CSR.:confused:
Gene  
#16 Posted : Thursday, January 6, 2011 11:20:13 AM(UTC)
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Check for 120 VAC between the "L" & "N" test points.

There is the thermal fuse spliced into the black wire of the ice maker wiring harness.

Remove the ice maker wiring harness from the ice maker and the cabinet outlet and check the black wire for continuity.

If there is no continuity, most likely the cause of it is an excessive heat from the mold heater. The thermostat for this ice maker is not available separate and the solution is to replace the whole ice maker and the wire harness (not included in the ice maker kit).

- The ice maker Part number: AP4135008
jackief288  
#17 Posted : Friday, January 7, 2011 12:59:51 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jackief288 Go to Quoted Post
I've recently replaced the primary inlet water valve, the secondary water inlet valve, the ice maker, the defrost timer, which was when I believe my ice maker stopped making ice. This morning I tried to cycle the I/M using a paper clip placing it in "H" and "T"-nothing happened. Now I'm wondering if my wiring harness could be bad or is there something else I'm missing. I've been working on this for a couple of months now due to work and time issues. I even was sent the wrong part, which I kept and just put on (the primary inlet water valve) because I did'nt want to be bothered returning it. My water dispenser is still working fine. I didn't take out the springs in the water lines when I hooked them up to the new secondary water inlet valve. The operator told me this could be the problem, but when I tried to get them out, I couldn't, they got stuck further up the tubes. I know this is'nt a reply or answer to this question, but I couldn't figure out how to ask a question. Thanks in advance for any help anyone may have. By the way, I have an Amana ARB2557CSR.:confused:



I purchased a new ice maker, but never a new wiring harness. I'm thinking that I probably just need the wiring harness, because the ice maker has never worked since I've installed it, because the wiring harness was probably bad from before. Does this makes sense? Thanks for getting back to me. ;)
Gene  
#18 Posted : Friday, January 7, 2011 2:00:26 PM(UTC)
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You are welcome. The best thing is just to check the wiring harness with an ohmmeter.

Gene.
jackief288  
#19 Posted : Saturday, January 8, 2011 8:14:47 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
You are welcome. The best thing is just to check the wiring harness with an ohmmeter.

Gene.


Thanks Gene, I did take my wiring harness out and check it with my digital multitester. The readings varied on some but I did get OL on the black wire and the white wire. Friday afternoon I ordered a wiring harness that should be here in day or two, because I only have until the 15th of January to return the ice maker. I now realize I should have been more on top of this, but between work and the holidays, I let it slip by. If this is indeed the problem, I'll let you know. Thanks again for all your help and getting back to me so fast!

Jackie;)
mickeyt  
#20 Posted : Sunday, January 23, 2011 9:06:31 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jackief288 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Gene, I did take my wiring harness out and check it with my digital multitester. The readings varied on some but I did get OL on the black wire and the white wire. Friday afternoon I ordered a wiring harness that should be here in day or two, because I only have until the 15th of January to return the ice maker. I now realize I should have been more on top of this, but between work and the holidays, I let it slip by. If this is indeed the problem, I'll let you know. Thanks again for all your help and getting back to me so fast!

Jackie;)

Quick question... how did you get your wiring harness out? Mine seems to be being held in firmly by something.
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