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let me start off by saying I fix appliances for a living and im pretty good at it but I have this ge dryer that I cant get fixed I have 240volts all the thermostats are good the element is good the switch in the motor is good the element is getting that leg of 120 that passes threw the motor when dryer is running ive tried 2 new thermistors which I believe should test out at around 100k at 77 degrees ive also tried 3 main boards and 1 user interface the only way I can get it to heat is if I bypass the relays on the main board or if I removed the white plug on the left that has both wires going to the thermistor two wires that go to a high limit cutoff and couple other wires "don't recall at this time where the go" then it will light up both elements, I believe one element is for time dry and the other for sense dry. basically the main board just wont send that power out to the element. the powers there it just wont send it. I have checked continuity of every single wire on this machine all test good. I did notice the wires going to the top left thermal cutoff only have like 53 volts or something around there.
it comes down to either the main board a thermistor or the user interface but ive tried all three all the same time even. what gives???????????
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I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Please check it.
Are you sure there is not a couple digits here dhdvh ? ? ef0ww
Note that I do not have access to most GE tech data so may not be much help.
[COLOR="Blue"]the switch in the motor is good, the element is getting that leg of 120 that passes threw the motor when dryer is running [/COLOR]
How did you determine this?
If you are measuring on that side of the elements to Neutral (ground) and see 120 there it does not necessarily mean that the motor switch is closing.
If the heater relay closes then you will see 120 here independent of the motor switch re: it is the other side of the line (usually L1) and since there is not a current path you see it on both sides of the heater. If the motor switch closes you will also see 120 here but it is L2.
You have no way of telling which it is unless you have an o-scope hooked up.
There are a couple ways to actually check it.
1. Measure across the switch. You should see 0 volts when the motor is running.
2. Unplug the unit and short the wires to the switch together. Be sure to tape them so they do not short to anything else and cannot get caught in a moving part. Then plug the unit back in and start a heating cycle.
3. Try a no heat cycle. The heater relay should not close so if you see 120 at the heater then I would say that it is the L2 voltage. I am not 100% sure about this method as I do not have a wiring diagram.
[COLOR="Blue"]
I believe one element is for time dry and the other for sense dry. basically the main board just wont send that power out to the element.[/COLOR]
Also not sure about this. On other dual element units I have seen one element is used for low heat and both are usead for high heat. |
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Assuming it's DHDVH52EF0WW, did you program the new board for the correct model dryer? Did you go into service mode to check for error codes and run any tests? If yes, and no error codes, then I would check the wiring to the thermistors and moisture sensor rods since unplugging the connector for those devices allows heat elements to work. Since they do work, we can assume the motor switch is working. You say that two wires of the white plug on the left goes to a high limit cutoff? That is not the case. The two white wires go to the inlet control thermistor, two blue wires to the outlet control thermistor and the gray and pink wires go to the moisture sensor bars. Both heat elements should be cycled on/off in all heat settings except extra low where only the inner coil is used.
Eric
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I am out to lunch on my post about the motor switch.
Somehow I missed where you can get heat sometimes.
Sorry about that!!! |
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