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LindaGL  
#1 Posted : Friday, March 21, 2014 8:03:19 PM(UTC)
LindaGL

Rank: Member

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Joined: 3/21/2014(UTC)
Posts: 1

The model number is noted incorrectly - it should be LE5800XMW0.

This dryer works without any problems in the timing mode - heating, drying and shutting off as it should.

In auto-mode (both regular and perm press), it heats and drys the clothes but the dial never advances and the dryer never shuts off.

What part am I looking at, how do I check it, and is it a DIY repair?

Thanks!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, March 23, 2014 2:33:33 AM(UTC)
denman

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Below are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LE5800XMW0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit so have to just give generalized info.

The timer is advanced differently for the two modes.
In timed dry it gets power directly from L1 (120 volts) to neutral.
In auto modes it gets power only when the heater turns off. This is L1 to L2 (240 volts) a resistor (item 5 in section 03) which reduces the voltage to 120 to advance the timer.

The first thing to check is the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run all the time.

If OK, check the resistor. They are usually around 5,000 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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