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larosa00  
#1 Posted : Saturday, October 29, 2011 5:37:59 PM(UTC)
larosa00

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/29/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

My dryer stopped heating so I replaced the heating element, High limiter thermostat, thermal fuse and the thermostat to make sure I covered all the bases. However, after everything was replaced I still have not heat. I checked the fuse box to see if the 220 was not tripped and the continuity of the parts to make sure everything was functional. What am I missing:confused:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, October 30, 2011 2:15:19 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE5700XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for a wiring diagram. I could not find one for a XPW0 so it is for a XSW1. Hopefully it will be the same or close to your unit.
Also I am assuming this is a USA model as there is a European model also available.

My dryer stopped heating so I replaced the heating element, High limiter thermostat, thermal fuse and the thermostat to make sure I covered all the bases. However, after everything was replaced I still have not heat. I checked the fuse box to see if the 220 was not tripped and the continuity of the parts to make sure everything was functional. What am I missing
By the sound of it you do not have a meter.

You cannot tell if you have the 240 just by looking at the breaker, sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

If the power is good.
Unplug the unit and set the timer to mid-cycle timed dry with high heat.
Set your meter to a low scale (usually 200 ohms)
Attach /tape one meter lead to L1 at the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the unit part by part till you find the open circuit.
File Attachment(s):
LE5700XSW1.pdf (32kb) downloaded 13 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
tvtech  
#3 Posted : Sunday, October 30, 2011 7:50:23 AM(UTC)
tvtech

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 55

turn power on carefully check- follow the 220 along its path. only 3 -4 parts gotta be simple.
larosa00  
#4 Posted : Sunday, October 30, 2011 12:31:06 PM(UTC)
larosa00

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/29/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE5700XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for a wiring diagram. I could not find one for a XPW0 so it is for a XSW1. Hopefully it will be the same or close to your unit.
Also I am assuming this is a USA model as there is a European model also available.

My dryer stopped heating so I replaced the heating element, High limiter thermostat, thermal fuse and the thermostat to make sure I covered all the bases. However, after everything was replaced I still have not heat. I checked the fuse box to see if the 220 was not tripped and the continuity of the parts to make sure everything was functional. What am I missing
By the sound of it you do not have a meter.

You cannot tell if you have the 240 just by looking at the breaker, sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If the power is good.
Unplug the unit and set the timer to mid-cycle timed dry with high heat.
Set your meter to a low scale (usually 200 ohms)
Attach /tape one meter lead to L1 at the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the unit part by part till you find the open circuit.


I had not reset the circuit breaker correctly. Once I reset it, it lit up on the first try. Thank you all for your help
denman  
#5 Posted : Sunday, October 30, 2011 1:18:32 PM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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