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lokahiboy  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, July 20, 2011 4:39:50 PM(UTC)
lokahiboy

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Dryer was found with very hot clothes and hot dryer! I have checked the exhaust and lint holder which are clear. After reading threads is the "cycling thermostat" the first thing to change? Thanks for any help you can give.:confused:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, July 22, 2011 4:49:43 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEC6848AQ1 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

First I would check the heating element.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high.

Next I would check the internal heating element in the cycling thermostat (thermostat heater in the wiring diagram.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
LEC6848.pdf (92kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
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lokahiboy  
#3 Posted : Sunday, July 24, 2011 12:41:04 PM(UTC)
lokahiboy

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Thanks Denman for all your help. Replaced the Cycling Thermastat which fixed the problem
denman  
#4 Posted : Sunday, July 24, 2011 5:35:44 PM(UTC)
denman

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You are welcome.

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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jlhebert  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, August 30, 2011 7:29:27 AM(UTC)
jlhebert

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Hi,
trying to solve the overheating problem of my quite new Whirlpool dryer, I changed both the cycling and high-limit thermostats. I already changed the thermal fuse since the 1st problem was no heating at all.

Since I changed those 3 parts, the dryer never stops heating up, even at 'Air only' position on the panel.

My question : I understand that the thermostat might cut at 150F, but since there are Low, Med, High temperature settings, there must be somethign in the dryer that cuts off at lower temperature than this 150F ? I would suspect this device to be broken since the element still burns at 'air only' position...

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

- Jean-Luc
denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, August 30, 2011 3:05:00 PM(UTC)
denman

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jlhebert

Please start your own thread using "Post New Topic"

Unless your model number and problem is exactly the same it will just confuse things.

Does sound like a grounded element, so I would start there.
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