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eggknee  
#1 Posted : Saturday, January 29, 2011 8:28:40 AM(UTC)
eggknee

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/29/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have a Kitchen Aid KUDP02CRBS1 dishwasher. After searching the forums I'm still not clear on which part I should replace. Initially the problem showed up as the Quick Clean, Rinse Only and Heat Dry buttons being the only ones that would light up when pressed and we were unable to get the washer to start. Pressing any buttons other than those three did nothing at all. After reading some of the other posts about bad buttons on these washers I took apart the door panel and checked the ribbon cable. It looked okay so I just pulled it off and re-seated it. I turned the circuit back on for the washer and now the Quick Rinse and Rinse Only buttons still light up but the Heat Dry button blinks 3 times and goes back off. No other buttons work at all so we are still unable to use the washer.

So is this a control panel that needs to be replaced, the overlay, the ribbon cable, some combination of those or something else I'm missing entirely?

Thanks!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 30, 2011 1:10:20 AM(UTC)
denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDP02CRBS1 UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet,see attachment

Take a look at Section 2.
It could be the console (keypad) Item 1, the ribbon cable item 2, the interconnect board item 5 or the control board item 11.
If you look at the tech sheet you will see that the 3 keys you mentioned first all use P1-6 as a common.

You may want to try the following first.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the various connections between the 4 parts.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Clean the other connectors. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

If the above does nothing check the ribbon cable and interconnect tracks for continuity using a meter.
If all OK then check the console (keypad) keys with the meter,see the tech sheet.
If the console fails then order that.
If all the above are OK then the control board is the most likely culprit.

Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better if you can actually narrow down the fault.

If you do the above checks and order a part from AppliancePartsPros they will let you return the part if it does not fix your problem.
See their return policy.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
KUDP02.pdf (251kb) downloaded 55 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
eggknee  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 1, 2011 2:45:36 PM(UTC)
eggknee

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/29/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

I wasn't able to find any faults with the meter. Based on other threads it seemed like the control board would be most likely so I ordered it. Got it this afternoon and installed it and it wasn't the problem. It seems like the ribbon cable and interconnect are pretty basic to put on the meter so I'm more confident that it isn't either of those. I'll order the button overlay next and hope that fixes it. Thanks for your help.
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