M# ARGS 7650 WW P# 1130755 NWW

Okay, after searching forums here and chatting with the online help dude or whatever, I bought and replaced the ignitor. At least, I think that's what I did.

Symptoms: No heat in oven. Burners up top still all work, digital front panel seems to work, but when I press the oven button and choose a temp, it says 100 (this is where the temp starts on mine) then never goes up. I have tried the broiler and tried cleaning mode to see if it would start. I can make the temp go up by holding a match on what I believe to be the thermometer so that seems to work. Here is what I have done and possibly it can help someone else figure out what I still need to do.

1. shut off the gas to the stove and removed the gas line.
2. unplugged stove.
3. removed back panel (see pic, 4 screws)


4. removed the oven door. (2 screws) and the oven racks.
5. removed the old ignitor (I think that's what it was anyway, see pics 2 screws)


6. traced the wires from the old ignitor out the back of the stove.



7. undid the ceramic wire nuts and disconnected the old unit.
8. removed the protective metal cage from the old ignitor and placed it on the new ignitor then mounted the new ignitor inside the oven.
9. ran the new wires out the back.



10. wired the new wires to where I had removed the old ones, then replaced everything I had undone. (covers, doors, plugged in, turn gas back on etc.

start to finish it was 25 mins which is about what others here have stated.

Now, here's my dilemma: My oven still doesn't work. I replaced with part # AP 3440673 from this site which looked just like my old unit. I was careful not to touch the tip of the new unit as instructed. Everything went smooth, but it still doesn't heat up.

So to recap, oven no go, broiler no go, stove works. No glow to ignitor.

Is it possible to wire the ignitor backwards?? I assumed the two wires were reversible and just wired them up as before.

What else should I consider (besides buying a new oven)?

Thanks in advance. Sorry it's so wordy, but I thought if I used pics and words, I'd have a better chance of making myself clear, and possibly help someone else in the future.

Ok. At this point it's like I'm talking to myself because I didn't give anyone a chance to reply before I did more digging in the parts section and found a 'bake ignitor' in the schematics. I'm guessing this must have been my problem all along. So for those of you in the future following my saga, here's how to get the bake ignitor out.

1. unplug stove, shut off gas and disconnect.
2. open and remove oven door (2 screws)
3. pull out drawer below door to make more room.
4. lift broiler cover inside oven and remove



5. locate bake ignitor and remove (3 screws)



6. lay oven forward enough to be able to reach under the bottom. (I just tilted mine all the way onto it's front)
7. locate green plug that is coming from inside oven (It's difficult to see in the picture but when you actually are doing it, you can see the green plug through the hole at the bottom left on the back of the stove)



8. unplug and remove bakeignitor through the front.

This is as far as I got as I'm waiting for the part, but I assume, it's pretty much the same in reverse. Just take the guard off the old ignitor and put it on the new one. Here's a pic of the part I'm calling bake ignitor as opposed to the earlier post when I replaced a larger flat ignitor and called it oven ignitor.



So, if there is anyone reading this that understands these things, can you tell me what I should have done differently to know which ignitor to replace? Possibly it will save someone in the future a bit of headache.

I fogot to give time estimate, prob about 30 minutes again once I knew what I was looking for. It's important to note that you can reach under and get the green plug disconnected cause that saves a ton of time in trying to remove the covers and such.

Bake ignitor part number: WHIRLPOOL AP4041245
Link: Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Igniter, bake, part number: AP4041245

Your replacing the bake ignitor (norton). To test a Norton Ignitor you would check the current running through it. The easiest way to do this is to use a clamp meter and connect it to one of the two wires running to it. If it doesn't draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps, it needs replaced (even if its glowing). If it's glowing and its drawing the correct current (amperage), then you would replace the gas valve. Also, it doesn't matter which way you connect the plug, unless, of course, its made to connect only one way, but electrically, either way will work.

Did you ever figure this out? We have the same stove and the same issue - no heat from bake or broil.

This is what we have determined:
Ignitors have no power (tested using voltmeter)
Gas valve no power (tested using voltmeter)
Display is fine, no errors
Stove top burners work fine
Door lock works (for clean cycle)
Oven thermal overload is good (ohms through)
Wiring looks good - nothing disconnected.

Before this issue we moved the stove from a natural gas burning home to propane, adjusted the burners, regulator, and replaced the broiler orifice. Occasionally we would hear a "poof" noise while baking. Otherwise oven has been working the last three months since its move.

Of course, the oven failed all together Thanksgiving.