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I have the JES9800AAS model stove. I originally found this site when trying to diagnose a burner that wouldn't cycle off. I was led in the direction of replacing the infinite switch and found links to service manuals. I got the replacement part, which as was well summarized by the originator of this thread, had different wiring instructions than the original switch. I came back to this site and was not disappointed. The instructions for wiring the new switch provided by Joe were perfect and our stove is now working again! I can't thank you enough. Please keep up the good work helping us folks trying to hang on to our hard earned dollars by trying to take ownership of our fix-it issues.
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Originally Posted by: akaruba I have the JES9800AAS model stove. I originally found this site when trying to diagnose a burner that wouldn't cycle off. I was led in the direction of replacing the infinite switch and found links to service manuals. I got the replacement part, which as was well summarized by the originator of this thread, had different wiring instructions than the original switch. I came back to this site and was not disappointed. The instructions for wiring the new switch provided by Joe were perfect and our stove is now working again! I can't thank you enough. Please keep up the good work helping us folks trying to hang on to our hard earned dollars by trying to take ownership of our fix-it issues. AKA, The APP Team are Glad we were able to help you out. Thanks for the critique on my post, I'm very glad it was helpful. Have a good Thanksgiving. :D :D :D :D
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I just want to say how much I appreciated finding this thread, the prior entry of which helped me replace my Dual Inf switch with minimum fuss. Joe you are great!
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Originally Posted by: ThatcherDeane I just want to say how much I appreciated finding this thread, the prior entry of which helped me replace my Dual Inf switch with minimum fuss. Joe you are great! Thatcher, We're always glad we could help. I'm glad it went well for you. Thanks for the compliment, really appreciate it. Have a good Holiday Season, Joe M.
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Joe,
I have a CVE3400W, similar to DillyBob in previous posts on this thread. I am having the exact same problem with getting the switch to work. Unfortunately for me, it looks like DillyBob fixed his OLD switch, and the two of you never finished debugging how to get the new switch to work with a CVE3400. Appreciate if you could please pick up the old thread again with me.
I have the new switch wired as follows:
P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2 terminal.
4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.
4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.
S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.
S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.
P2 = Red wire to power junction box.
2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).
But (same as DillyBob) now the dual infinite burner works, but the other three don't.
Shouldn't I just move the red wire from 2, and put it back together, piggybacked as they were originally, and put it on P2 (and leaving 2 empty)?
I can't see otherwise how the remaining switches get power from L2.
Appreciate your help.
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Originally Posted by: HotInHouston Joe,
I have a CVE3400W, similar to DillyBob in previous posts on this thread. I am having the exact same problem with getting the switch to work. Unfortunately for me, it looks like DillyBob fixed his OLD switch, and the two of you never finished debugging how to get the new switch to work with a CVE3400. Appreciate if you could please pick up the old thread again with me.
I have the new switch wired as follows:
P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2 terminal.
4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.
4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.
S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.
S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.
P2 = Red wire to power junction box.
2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).
But (same as DillyBob) now the dual infinite burner works, but the other three don't.
Shouldn't I just move the red wire from 2, and put it back together, piggybacked as they were originally, and put it on P2 (and leaving 2 empty)?
I can't see otherwise how the remaining switches get power from L2.
Appreciate your help. Houston, Your issue should be simple( you most likely have the Red wires reversed at the terminals of the new switch). Or You may have clipped the wrong wire. All the red L2 wires, at all the switches, should have 120 VAC to chassis groung, with power supplied to the cooktop. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe,
I wired my same switch per your recommendation. Only the outer burner heats up. The outer burner heats up regardless of which direction you turn the switch. The inner one does not come on. Recommendations?
Andy
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Originally Posted by: amgribben@comcast.net Joe,
I wired my same switch per your recommendation. Only the outer burner heats up. The outer burner heats up regardless of which direction you turn the switch. The inner one does not come on. Recommendations?
Andy Andy, Did you check and make sure the wiring at the element is OK ? Could you please get me the model and serial number of your product, so we can get this wiring issue resolved, Thanks, :) :) :)
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Jenn air cooktop, Model cce3401b. Serial 14610867UQ. The burner wiring appears to be in good shape and in tact.
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Originally Posted by: amgribben@comcast.net Jenn air cooktop, Model cce3401b. Serial 14610867UQ. The burner wiring appears to be in good shape and in tact. You're going to need to recheck the L2 (red) wires and make sure they are on the correct terminals at the new switch. At this point we have L2 power into the switch and 2 L2 power out to the element crossed or mis wired. Heres a little help for the location of the wires at the new switch, it may help REX3615.pdf (126kb) downloaded 14 time(s).Good Luck, :) :) :)
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