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I have a Jenn-Air JES9800AAB the the Front-Right Double Burner would only operate on High. I ordered a replacement infinite switch and ran into similar issues that others have had, in that the enclosed instructions were a little confusing. I followed the instructions on the first page for the JES9800AAW which seems to work just fine. The only difference was a minor difference. The 'brown' wire was actually 'tan' on my stove. I figured tan = brown, so it didn't cause much confusion.
For the JES9800AAB, the wiring was:
Install the jumper wire from one of the two P1 terminals to the S1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Black wire to the second P1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Single Red wire to the 2 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Red wire to P2 on new switch.
Connect the Single Black wire to S2 on new switch.
Connect the Brown or Tan wire to 4 on new switch.
Connect the Yellow wire to 4A on new switch.
Everything appears to be working correctly now. Thanks for all the info on this forum. It would have been much more confusing without your assistance.
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Originally Posted by: neilf  I have a Jenn-Air JES9800AAB the the Front-Right Double Burner would only operate on High. I ordered a replacement infinite switch and ran into similar issues that others have had, in that the enclosed instructions were a little confusing. I followed the instructions on the first page for the JES9800AAW which seems to work just fine. The only difference was a minor difference. The 'brown' wire was actually 'tan' on my stove. I figured tan = brown, so it didn't cause much confusion.
For the JES9800AAB, the wiring was:
Install the jumper wire from one of the two P1 terminals to the S1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Black wire to the second P1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Single Red wire to the 2 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Red wire to P2 on new switch.
Connect the Single Black wire to S2 on new switch.
Connect the Brown or Tan wire to 4 on new switch.
Connect the Yellow wire to 4A on new switch.
Everything appears to be working correctly now. Thanks for all the info on this forum. It would have been much more confusing without your assistance. Neil, You're Very Welcome , We're glad we could help you out. Sounds like you did a great job. Thanks Again.
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Originally Posted by: neilf I have a Jenn-Air JES9800AAB the the Front-Right Double Burner would only operate on High. I ordered a replacement infinite switch and ran into similar issues that others have had, in that the enclosed instructions were a little confusing. I followed the instructions on the first page for the JES9800AAW which seems to work just fine. The only difference was a minor difference. The 'brown' wire was actually 'tan' on my stove. I figured tan = brown, so it didn't cause much confusion.
For the JES9800AAB, the wiring was:
Install the jumper wire from one of the two P1 terminals to the S1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Black wire to the second P1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Single Red wire to the 2 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Red wire to P2 on new switch.
Connect the Single Black wire to S2 on new switch.
Connect the Brown or Tan wire to 4 on new switch.
Connect the Yellow wire to 4A on new switch.
Everything appears to be working correctly now. Thanks for all the info on this forum. It would have been much more confusing without your assistance. I also have a JES9800AAb and both of the double burners only operate on high. My question is regarding the left dual burner...there is a blue and an orange wire and wanted to verify the layout for these on the replacement dual infinite switch (12002125). the replacement for the right dual burner was spot on. thanks so much
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Originally Posted by: Tiger59 I also have a JES9800AAb and both of the double burners only operate on high. My question is regarding the left dual burner...there is a blue and an orange wire and wanted to verify the layout for these on the replacement dual infinite switch (12002125). the replacement for the right dual burner was spot on.
thanks so much Tiger59, In short, you're going to follow the same steps as you did on the right front switch. The wire colors will be different, but the procedure will be the same. P1 terminals will have the L1 (common to all the switches) on one terminal and one end of the jumper wire on the other terminal. #4 terminal will have the Tan wire(inside ring of element) attached to it. #4A terminal will have the orange wire(outside element ring) attached to it. S2 terminal will have the black indicator light wire attached to it. S1 terminal will have the other end of the jumper wire attached to it. P2 terminal will have one of the red wires attached to it. ( you'll need to separate the red wires at the wire terminals, attach the red wire common to all the switches to the P2 terminal). #2 terminal will have the "left over" red wire attached to it. ( this red wire is routed down to the element and attaches to the "hi limit" switch on the element sensor. The wiring diagram we have doesn't show a "blue" wire at the infinite switch. You will need to trace that wire to the termination point and make the appropriate changes to the wires and positions.
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I have the CVE3400W and ordered the replacement dual infinite switch 12002125 .
I have been having the same problems with 1) not getting power to the three burners when following the original instructions and 2) flipping the breaker when swapping them.
I noticed that mdeudy6565 did not indicate if the switch still worked after he popped the breaker due to swapping the P2 and 2 red wires (when incorrectly separated). Would it have caused any damage?
I will try the additional instructions you provided and hopefully will resolve this if the switch is still good.
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Originally Posted by: gte037p I have the CVE3400W and ordered the replacement dual infinite switch 12002125 .
I have been having the same problems with 1) not getting power to the three burners when following the original instructions and 2) flipping the breaker when swapping them.
I noticed that mdeudy6565 did not indicate if the switch still worked after he popped the breaker due to swapping the P2 and 2 red wires (when incorrectly separated). Would it have caused any damage?
I will try the additional instructions you provided and hopefully will resolve this if the switch is still good. GTE037, Yes, there is a possibility that the switch contacts will get damaged, if the wires are incorrectly connected to the replacement switch. Chances are the switch is damaged, based on the information you supplied. try and remember that the L2 (red)wire is common to all the infinite switches as is the L1(black) wire. These are both "power in" wires/circuits. You may have to determine which red wire(s) attach to the P2 terminal by checking the voltage on the red wire to chassis ground, with power applied to the cooktop and all the switches in the off position. The wiring information in the previous posts pertains to 99% of all the machines the switch is used in. So you should be able to trace the termination points of the wires and re wire the new switch properly.
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Well, I followed your instructions and disconnected the red wire from the front-right switch that went to the Left-rear heating element sensor. I put a spade connector on it and connected it to 2 of the new dual infinite switch (left-rear). I've reconnected power and three elements work, but the left-rear still doesn't work. The light turns on when I turn the switch either way, but the element doesn't heat up for either the inner or outer ring.
There is 220v to the red wire of the left-rear dual element. Is there a way to connect power to just verify the operation of the switch before I replace it?
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Originally Posted by: gte037p Well, I followed your instructions and disconnected the red wire from the front-right switch that went to the Left-rear heating element sensor. I put a spade connector on it and connected it to 2 of the new dual infinite switch (left-rear). I've reconnected power and three elements work, but the left-rear still doesn't work. The light turns on when I turn the switch either way, but the element doesn't heat up for either the inner or outer ring.
There is 220v to the red wire of the left-rear dual element. Is there a way to connect power to just verify the operation of the switch before I replace it? gte037, You should not have 220 VAC on a wire, especially at the element. You're testing it wrong or you have a wiring issue. There should be 120 VAC on the black L1 wire and 120 VAC on the red L2 wire, and 220 VAC across the two wires, at the new switch. And no voltage to the element until the switch is turned on To voltage test the switch, you'll need to be very careful, due to the shock hazard, but attach the black L1 wire to the P1 terminal, and the red L2 wire to the P2 terminal. Leave the remainder of wires disconnected. Turn the switch to the high setting and check for 120 VAC out on the no.4 terminal, 120 VAC out on the 4A terminal and 120 VAC out on the no.2 terminal, you'll use chassis ground as a common and you should have the correct voltages if the switch has not shorted out internally. The black L1 wire, and the red L2 wire, should have 120 VAC on the terminal, whenever power is applied to the cooktop. The red wire with the voltage, should be attached to the P2 terminal of the new switch, and then jumps around to the L2 terminal on all the other switches.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Sir,
I am not sure I can be exactly correct in helping you wire your new switch.
Your wiring colors are correct but your switch locations are not, based on my wiring diagram for a JES9800AAW and the new switch configuration.
I will assist you as best I can with the information I have.I will be including the component the wires should be going to so you may varify if you need to.
First, install the jumper wire from P1 to S1 terminals on new switch
Red wire(single) on terminal 4 on old switch should be on terminal 2 on new switch and terminates at burner sensor circuit.
Red wire(dual) on terminal 5 on old switch should be on terminal P2 on new switch and will terminate at terminal block and jump over to the next infinite switch.(two directions).
Black wire (single) on terminal 1 of old switch should be on S2 terminal on new switch and terminate at indicator light.
Black wire(dual) on terminal 2 on old switch should be on P1 terminal on new switch(beside jumper wire connection) and terminate at terminal block and jump to the next infinite switch(two directions).
Brown wire terminal 3 on old switch should be on terminal 4 on new switch and terminate at outside burner element terminal on burner.
Yellow wire terminal 6 on old switch should be on terminal 4A on new switch and terminate at inside burner element terminal on burner.
Test burner operation, low and hi settings and re assemble the unit.
This is a compilation of the information you supplied, the wiring diagram for the unit, and the new switch configuration, and should have you up and running in no time
Thanks for leting us help you I replaced both dual burner switches and wired them as described above. The right front burner works fine. The left rear switch in the the inner burner position is very dim and in the both burner position only powers the outer burner.
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Originally Posted by: drazlou I replaced both dual burner switches and wired them as described above. The right front burner works fine. The left rear switch in the the inner burner position is very dim and in the both burner position only powers the outer burner. Drazlou, We're going to need the model number of your product, so we can trace the wires and circuits to get the rear burner element to work properly. In the mean time, you'll want to use a multi meter and check both the inner and outer element ribbons for "closed" circuits and make sure the ribbons aren't shorted together. you'll make those checks at the terminals on the side of the element housing. Once we get the model number, we can recheck the wiring and connections at the new switch, and get you up and running.
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