Originally Posted by: dillybob I saw the schematic you have...It's the same, except mine has a text box on the bottom that reads: "NOTE THERE IS A RESISTANCE HEATER IN ALL INFINITE CONTROLS IN SERIES WITH H1 & H2. EXCEPT LEFT REAR (the one we are working on) WHERE THE TESISTANCE HEATER IS IN SERIES WITH L1 AND N. SEE REVERSE SIDE FOR DETAILS.
quote=Joe / APP Team;282724]Bob,
I'm almost lost, now.
Yes, send me a copy of your schematic, I doubt if theres a difference, but let's see.
I'm guessing we're going to have to start from the beginning and work our way out of this mess.
So be ready for some things and checks that may not make sense to you.
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Bob,
My schematic apparently is the same as yours(mine has the same notes as yours' as well).
Let's try this:
Since the new switch is # 1 in the switch harness,and it sort of works,
RECHECK the splices and terminals that you made in the beginning on the piggybacked Black and Red wires at the new switch.
***Be CAREFUL this is a live 240 volt test at the switches and wiring.***
*** You'll need to turn power off and on between checks ***
1) With power on and access to the switch wires, check from P1 terminal to p2 terminal for 240 VAC .
2) Then turn the switch on and see if you have the same voltage on the same terminals.
3) Now,remove and check each Red wire on the new switch to chassis ground for 120 VAC (only one red wire should have 120 VAC on it at this time).
The red wire with 120 VAC should go on terminal P2 on the new switch , the other should go on terminal 2. (if wiring needs to be switched).
4) Recheck for 240 VAC at terminal P1 and P2, with the switch on.
5) Now check for 120 VAC at L1 (Black) to chassis ground on all the other
switches
6) Now check for 120 VAC at L2 (Red) to chassis ground on all the other
switches.
7) Now Check for 240 VAC from L1 to L2 on all the other switches.
Let us know what you get, and what, if any repairs, you had to make.
:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: