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jstayoung1  
#1 Posted : Thursday, June 10, 2010 12:37:53 AM(UTC)
jstayoung1

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

Please help!!! I have an Amana(Maytag) electric clothes dryer, model #LE7111WM, that suddenly stopped heating during a cycle. The previous load of clothes seemed to dry just fine, but when I opened the door to check on my current load, I noticed it was cool inside the dryer. I then restarted the load, but unfortunately, I have had no heat since. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, June 10, 2010 3:44:21 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA LE7111WM Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/RS3200001.pdf
Unfortunately it does not include wiring diagrams.
Check inside your control console perhaps a wiring diagram is in there or glued to the back panel.

First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
[COLOR="Blue"]Be careful 240 volts is lethal.[/COLOR]
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the heating coil and thermostats etc. for continuity.
Heating coil, should be 10 to 12 ohms approximately.
Thermostats and thermal fuse all should be 0 ohms.
Cycling (main) thermostat is on the blower.
Thermal fuse and hi-limit thermostat are on the heater.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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