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michelleedwards  
#1 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2009 5:23:10 AM(UTC)
michelleedwards

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my oven kicked off the breaker twice about a week ago. needed to use the other night had to reset the breaker about 5 times to use. Turned the oven off but it continued heating. showed no indication on panel that oven was even on or the what the temp was. Had to turn breaker off the get oven to turn off. Turned breaker on next morning and oven started heating again on its own. the color is white. I don't know what the problem is and I don't want an expensive repair, I would just get a new stove. My husband can replace a switch or even the controller board so we can handle the repair if we knew what it was.
Thanks for any help
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2009 6:04:02 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Sounds like the problem is a bad control board aka a clock.

- The part number for the clock is AP4009448

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for JENN-AIR FCE30600W | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
michelleedwards  
#3 Posted : Thursday, June 4, 2009 4:53:05 PM(UTC)
michelleedwards

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replaced clock , oven sensor and light bulb ( hasn't work in a couple years ). Turned on breaker and everything seemed okay, but oven was still on without any indication and tripped breaker again. Deceided to check heating element, had welded itself to frame of stove on back, got unstuck and flipped breaker, came on and worked fine, husband deceided to put in clean cycle, ( since it firt tripped in clean cycle, thought maybe it was stuck in clean cycle and if it finished would work.) after about 20 minutes it stated beeping and gave an error code of f2, which is oven too hot, but we replaced the oven sensor also. Could we have put the oven sensor in wrong or could the heating element be the problem ?
thanks for all your help, Michelle
Dan O.  
#4 Posted : Friday, June 5, 2009 9:55:12 AM(UTC)
Dan O.

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Quote:
Could we have put the oven sensor in wrong

I don't know how anyone could do that. It's a pretty simple connection. And no, it doesn't matter which wire went where on the replacement sensor.

Quote:
could the heating element be the problem ?

It couldn't cause the oven to be hotter than normal, no, but it could have damaged the control when it "welded itself to frame of stove" or as a result of connecting it to the new control while in that condition.

Maybe the new control is now defective? Will it operate normally on bake or does it overheat there too?

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~
michelleedwards  
#5 Posted : Sunday, June 7, 2009 3:40:04 PM(UTC)
michelleedwards

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my brother thinkes it could possibly be the part that sends the electricity to the the different parts and maybe a relyay switch is stuck. we have taken the wires off the heating element in the oven so at least we can use the range. My husband got the heating elment off the side of the back of the oven. I hope it has not shorted the new controller board as thisd was an expensive part to replace. I am out of ideas and have alrfeady spent about $200.00 on parts.
Thanks michelle
denman  
#6 Posted : Monday, June 8, 2009 4:53:08 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram

my brother thinkes it could possibly be the part that sends the electricity to the the different parts and maybe a relyay switch is stuck.

Unplug the unit
Attach a meter between the wires that go to the element
Make sure they cannot short to anything else
Plug the unit in and check the voltage
Should be 0 volts, if it is 240 volts then your problem is either the relay or the control board.
If it is 0 then odds are high that you have a grounded element and it needs to be replaced.

Be very careful 240 volts is lethal!!!


My husband got the heating elment off the side of the back of the oven.
Am not sure what you mean by this.
Also do not understand where exactly the element was shorting.
Cannot see how the element's bare wire connectors can short to the frame.
If the element was shorting through the black/gray insulator coating then it needs replacing.
Note that one side of the element is always connected to power (red) and the switch the other side (black) on/off to control it. If the element shorts to the frame which is Neutral then you always have 120 volts going to the element.
Was the entire element white hot or just part of it. These elements can short through the feet to the frame so it heats up frome one side of the element to that foot.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
michelleedwards  
#7 Posted : Monday, June 8, 2009 5:13:50 PM(UTC)
michelleedwards

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Heating element in oven was welded to frame in back on right side if looking at oven from front. The wires were not welded as we were able to disconnect them so that we could at least use range. The heating element will heat all the way around it is not just one side. Hope this helps I try to explain everything that has happened.
thanks michelle
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