Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2016(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Hello All,
Recently I discovered an issue with my GE washer will it was in the middle of a washing cycle. The display on the unit showed 0:1 minute remaining but the unit was not doing anything. The unit did start but appeared to have stopped working prior to finishing the the complete wash cycle. I began troubleshooting this issue by removing the bottom cover to check the drain, water pump part etc. Once the cover was removed, I did notice a small amount of water in the bottom area but nothing significant. I was unable to locate where the water came from and I did not see anything that would have caused the machine to stop working at the very end of the cycle. I reconnected AC power that the only thing that showed in the display was door locked. I waited for a few minutes and nothing happened. I attempted to access the diag/test mode without any luck either. I attempted the diag/test sequence by unplugging the unit for 30 seconds, reconnecting power, and following the signal-delay start button sequence two times but the unit would not go into test mode. As usual, "door locked" did appear in the display but there was no indication that I was in test/diag mode. I am not sure if the control unit got wet from the small amount of water that I noticed at the bottom of the unit, but nothing appears to be working. I even tried to power on the unit after connecting to AC power and nothing happens. After a minutes or so, the pump kicks on but nothing else happens. Nothing shows in the display nor does the cycle start. Any information that someone could provide would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
|
When you get problems like you have described on these GE models the control board is the likely suspect. But it is an expensive part and while these machines are great when they work when they do not they are expensive to repair and difficult to diagnose.
Think about replacing it, and if you don't need a front loader a no frills, no electronics top loader is what you want. If you do want to try and fix it and order the board from APP you can return it if it does not do the trick.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2016(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Hello Sid,
Thanks alot for your quick response. I was comparing the repair cost verses the replacement cost as you mentioned. Decision...decisions. :).
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2016(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Hey Sid,
Is this a common issue with the GE units or front loaders across the board? I trying to see if there are other models that hold seem to hold up a little better than others. But at the end of the day, it the electronic components that seems to be the issue.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
|
Well part of the problem is the GE engineers who made this thing about the most complicated set of electronics imagineable, I mean it has more gear than a nuclear sub. But the main problem is electronics. Circuit boards hate moisture, heat and vibration and washers have . . . . . .
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2016(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Sounds about right. I've been looking into this issue even deeper and I noticed that their is a very large hole in the door seal. The hole/rip in the seal is directly next to the door lock assembly. This explains why I noticed some water in the bottom once I opened up the bottom to check the drain and pump. I also read numerous complaints from GE front load washer owners who had issues with the drum ripping into the door seal. It seems that the drum problem is a major problem with GE front load machines. This explains the loud banging that I heard, which prompted me to check on the washing machine prior to discovering this issue. I'm assuming the bearing are worn out, which caused the drum rip into the seal during spin cycles and cause the loud banging sound. I'm assuming that some water caused an issue with the lock assembly, which is why Im consistently seeing "door locked" on the display. Maybe the drum is off track or damaged which maybe the reasoning for the cycle bot to start. I'm not sure why the display nor the button are not illuminating, but I'm sure it's a electronic issue so how. I'm new to this forum, but I will see if I van attach a picture.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2016(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
I tried to crop the picture as best as I could to fit the attachment requirements. The rip is approximately 8 inches high and 5 inches wide when the seal is open completely. Joe215 attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
|
Yeah, I see your picture and I also see a new machine in your future.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
