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Canon_Man
[COLOR="Blue"]The machine sits on ceramic tile flooring, and the water got in the grout and flowed under some of the tiles. It ruined the cabinet toe kicks as they swelled and split due to the excessive water damage.[/COLOR]
I would recommend you do the following.
Buy yourself a tray. The plastic ones they sell for wet boots or similar will do.
They have about a half inch lip all around the outside. Try to get the largest one you can that will still fit under the unit. You want to cover as many possible leak points as can.
Then cut about an inch out of the front side lip out.
Either do not have the units kick plate touching the floor or cut a small piece out where it meets the floor.
So now if the pump etc.leaks the water will run out onto the floor in front of the unit and you will know that there is a problem.
Often the tray will not get under the water valve so either get a small tray for here or as I do just double up some tin foil and make a seperate one for that area. |
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That's a good work around. I actually ran it last night and of course it continued to leak around the 'diverter' gizmo as before. :mad: I placed a small, low tuperware 12 oz container at the center of the unit where it leaks and caught about 6 oz of water; - none on the floor thankfully.
I plan to run the unit until it quits and then take it to Sears with a sign on it and plunk it in their main floor store area. One can only hope that Sears, along with their crappy goods go out of business quietly.
Don't get Consumers Reports anymore, but I think we'll replace it with a Miele or Bosch unit. That way if something does go wrong, I won't hesitate to repair or have it repaired as a higher end unit.
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Well, it leaked after I took it apart to see where the leak was.
As mentioned, I put it back together, added a small amount of silicone up in the sump where the 'o' ring seal was and re-positioned the 'diverter'.
What was a leak subsided after 24 hours, with a trickle coming out with the next run, and finally nothing at all.
Now I guess I've got a dishwasher that works, doesn't leak, but is a ticking time bomb.
I don't even know what this 'diverter' does, or how this shaft does anything, because it doesn't turn as far as I can tell.
Mystery to me!
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Canon_Man Here is a link to a manual which may be useful to you. You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download it. http://appliancejunk.com...&id=229;t=1450702906I do not have a Kenmore to Whirlpool model cross reference list so do not know if this is an exact match to your unit but the pump looks the same. |
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Hi, Will have a look after the Christmas rush is over... Thanks again. Originally Posted by: denman  Canon_Man Here is a link to a manual which may be useful to you. You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download it. http://appliancejunk.com...&id=229;t=1450702906I do not have a Kenmore to Whirlpool model cross reference list so do not know if this is an exact match to your unit but the pump looks the same.
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not to mention cabinet/floor repairs.
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Originally Posted by: Canon_Man We bought all new Sears Kenmore appliances when we bought this home in April 2012. I installed the dishwasher a few days after we moved in. Our dishwasher is a 665.13263K111 and while we did not pay the list price of $899.99 for it, it certainly has not been a joy to own, failing this soon in it's life. We left behind all of our Whirlpool Gold appliances in our last home, primarily because they were over 12 years old and it was time to replace them at some point.
Now we appear to have the same problem as everyone who has posted in this thread. Noting that the experience of most posters appears to be at the three year time frame, I guess our experience with this Kenmore / Whirlpool trash is not unusual.
I took the diverter motor off and the pump to ensure that there were no obvious cracks or other problems that might have contributed to the small amount of leakage; - about 6 oz during a complete cycle. The diverter looked OK, but I cleaned the contacts that had started to turn blue with vinegar, a toothbrush and electronics parts cleaner followed by canned air. Contacts seemed to clean up well.
The machine sits on ceramic tile flooring, and the water got in the grout and flowed under some of the tiles. It ruined the cabinet toe kicks as they swelled and split due to the excessive water damage. The only sealing was an 'o' ring inside the sump where the shaft enters the sump.
There was no washer or other seals that I could see. Haven't run it yet to see if it is better, worse or just OK. Waiting for the silicone to dry up inside the sump housing in the 'o' ring area.
If someone is considering a class action law suit against Kitchenaid, Whirlpool and Sears, I'm in.
Three years from a $900 appliance is unacceptable. Used to be the quality went in before the name went on according to Zenith. Now you have to pay more for an extended warranty to fix the cheaped-out appliance when it breaks, which apparently is inevitable. not to mention the price and time spent with cabinet/floor repairs
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I have the same problem with my Kenmore 665.12793k311 leaking at the dirverter motor. I read all the reviews on Sears website before buying the unit and saying it won't happen to me but it did! The washer is only 1.5 years old and Sears doesn't care about my flooded kitchen, or the defective parts without lots of $ paid to there service tech. they suck! Well anyway, I was wondering who came to the conclusion that the sump seal for the diverter valve shaft is installed upside down? I see lots of post here and other blogs stating this. Was there a tech bulletin from Whirlpool or Sears? I just want to know what way it needs to be installed since I removed it from the sump so I could replace it. I would assume that the side of the seal with the spring would be facing the motor or away from the wet environment of the inside of the sump. The spring is a cheap stainless since it will stick to a magnet meaning that in the hot,wet, and caustic conditions of the sump it probably won't last to long. So if someone can jump in and let me know what way it goes I would appreciate it. In addition where is the best place to buy that seal online.
Thanks in advance
George
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Have seen the seal on Amazon for about $12, but if you can get your hands on some small opaque surgical rubber/neoprene tubing it will slip over the shaft and seal the offending seal very well. Add a bit of silicone grease and you're good.
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