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i have tested good all thermofuses, heat element.
the only thing i notice is that i don.t have 240 on the heat element when i place both lead of my tester on both end of the heat element.
However i do read 120 on each individual side of the heat element compare to ground.
please help i don't get it
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Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WED5100VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. [COLOR="Blue"]please help i don't get it[/COLOR] I am not sure what you mean by the above so hopefully the below will clear things up a bit. The electricity in your house is actually two 120 volt supplies (L1 and L2) that share a common Neutral. They are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one is at positive 120 volts the other is at negative 120 volts therefore L1 to L2 is 240 volts.The heater uses the 240 and 120 volts is not part of the heater circuit so using Neutral as your reference can be confusing. When did you measure the 120 at the heater? If measured when the timer is set to a heating mode but the motor is off then you are probably measuring L1 at the heater (through the timer contacts and thermostats). If it is only there when the motor is running then you are probably measuring L2 (through the motor's centrifugal switch). You see the same 120 volts on each side of the heater so across the heater you get 0 volts. One thing to note if all is OK with the unit you still see 120 volts on each side but it is L1 on one side and L2 on the other so you get 240 across the element. I am assuming that the timer advances in timed dry mode( L2 , Timer Switch 0 T to X , Timer Motor , L1). If it also advances in auto modes ( L2 , centrifugal switch 2M to 1M , Heater , Timer Switch 0 T to F , L1)then you know that the motor's centrifugal switch is OK and the problem is on the timer side of the heater circuit. If it does not advance in auto mode the problem is likely on the motor centrifugal switch side of the circuit. |
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i measured in time dry when motor is running.
i also replaced the motor, and still reading 0 volt across the heater
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i understand that in order to heater works needs 120 volt on each side so if you put your meter across you 240 an this is the reading i am not getting reason why is not heat
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Sorry but I do not understand your last post.
Are you saying that when you measure across the heating coil when the motor is running you read 240 volts?
If this is the case then the heating coil is no good. |
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no, with motor running i am reading 0v across the heater
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OK.
You are seeing the same side of the line either L1 or L2 at the heater.
Now when running in timed dry does the timer advance?
If Yes
If the timer is set in an auto dry mode do you see 120 volts when referenced to Neutral/ground when the motor is not turning?
If the timer is set in an auto dry mode do you see 120 volts when referenced to Neutral/ground when the motor is turning? |
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in auto mode when motor not running i do read 120 when referenced to neutral/ground
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OK so using the wiring diagram the fault should be on the left side of the heater.
Unplug the unit.
Put your meter on it's most sensitive resistance scale.
Before starting short the meter leads together so you know if there is a zero offset in the meter.
Attach (tape or clip) one meter lead to L1 on the line cord.
Or since the timer does advance you could attach it to C on the timer re: the unit is getting 240 volts so the line cord is OK.
Now work your way back through the circuit.
C, B and A on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal cut off should be 0 ohms.
Both sides (heavier red wires) of the operating thermostat should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the hi-limit thermostat should be 0 ohms.
One side of the heater should be 0 ohms.
The other side of the heater should be around 10 ohms |
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I measured all these points and i have on every single one 0 ohms including both sides of heater.
i must say that this reading was in the Automatic cycle
thans
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