I replaced the start relay and the overload and it is still clicking, the compressor starts and then shuts off in about a minute and it is getting hot then it clicks again and the compressor comes on and then off again....is there something I am missing? the fan in the back is coming on the freezer fan is working,,,,is it the compressor bad I don't have a meter to check it...any other ideas?

Carol

Ok, I have replaced the overload and start relay and I have checked the defrost timer and it is running. I'm get the clicking sound but its still not cooling. The compressor is not shorted and it gets hot to the touch after 10 minutes. The coil fan turns on but the fan inside the freezer does not. What can I do next.

My husband passed away suddenly in August. Everything appliance etc..has had problems. Well now its my refridgerator we purched less than 2 years ago new.
What was mentioned in quote is exactly what mine is doing. I know I can do this, but my husband took care of things like this. Can someone guide me please? Thank you!
Mary

The freezer on our 14 year old Maytag refridgerator stopped working. Fridge is not bad, but now have it on high to keep it cool. Freezer is freezing, just cold...likely from items that are frozen maintaining temp. First clue was a popsicle that had melted liquid.

Cleaned everything and took off back panel. Fan next to compressor is working, but I hear zip from the compressor. Compressor is extremely hot to touch.

I unplugged for about 1 hr, re-plugged, and still nothing.

i saw the 2nd post about testing pins for resistance to see if relay or compressor issue, but can't seem to figure out which pins I should be testing on my particular fridge.

Can anyone help? Pic reference would be great if possible.

I have GE side by side Monogram Model ZISB42DYB, refrigerator and freezer.
1. I replaced the broken bracket that holds the primary fan (condenser fan) which runs normal. This was changed as the fan was making noise, after replacing bracket same fan operates normally.
2. I did not notice the cooling was low on both freezer and fresh food side until recently, but I think this was a problem for a few weeks.
3. The condenser starts and seems to run as expected, as well the evaporator fan runs in the freezer.
PROBLEM-the freezer and refrigerator both cool down at level 7 on control normal is 5, but neither seems to hold temperature once food or liquidate is stored.
1. The Compressor and both fans functional. The cooling radiator is clean.
2. The problem is the main refrigerator at level reaches +33 degrees F, and the freezer can reach 0 degrees F, but with a few bottles of vodka and full ice load the freezer temperature creeps up to 16-20 Degrees F within 1 hour, maybe 30 F if fully loaded as I have not recently tested it will full load.
3. The refrigerator fresh food side is not loaded much as of now, so I am not sure with full load if this will move up past 45 to 50 degrees F.
4. The Freezer side frame at the gasket is very hot, IR measurement up to 100 Degrees F at the top and sides and down to 60 Degrees F on bottom. The Fresh food section gasket frame is normal temperature.
Questions:
1. I wonder if freon is low and main cause of problem as other components seem to operate?
2. I know there is a control card somewhere in the refrig, but not sure if there is way to diagnosis problems as I do not have test kit?