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chrismalm  
#1131 Posted : Saturday, February 26, 2011 2:11:28 PM(UTC)
chrismalm

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You're awesome, Thanks !
repairhelpneeded  
#1132 Posted : Saturday, February 26, 2011 8:18:49 PM(UTC)
repairhelpneeded

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Hi Gene,

I appreciate all the advise you have given in this thread and I have read as much as I could so I wouldn't waste your time.

I have a GE PDS20SCRBRSS Bottom freezer refrigerator with a different problem than most of the people on this thread. Here's what happened:

It failed suddenly and completely after working fine for 7 years -- no cooling, no digital temp. displays, no function for temp. set buttons.

I talked to a local repairman who felt 99% certain that it was the main control board, so I replaced it. I powered back up and the compressor and evaporator fan started running and the temp. display and controls began working. The freezer cooled down to about 0. However, the FF compartment stayed about 60 - 65.

There is no ice or frost anywhere, so I think the defrost system is OK. I can feel the fan blowing at the rear of the freezer.

No air seems to be moving in the FF compartment so I removed the Dampner assy. in the center rear. No cold was rising from the freezer. I manually opened the door and put the assy. back, but it made no difference.

I tried to get the panel off the back wall of the freezer, but I couldn't see how -- no visible screws and ice-maker in the way.

I will appreciate it so much if you would tell me what to do next.

Thanks very much,
Leon :)
Gene  
#1133 Posted : Monday, February 28, 2011 12:35:19 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Leon,

Check the air returns as shown on the diagram (attached to the reply). It must be always open.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PDS20SCRBRSS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
Bottom mount refrigerator - air flow.doc (66kb) downloaded 10 time(s).
repairhelpneeded  
#1134 Posted : Monday, February 28, 2011 5:00:48 PM(UTC)
repairhelpneeded

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Thanks Gene,

I appreciate your reply. To check the air ducts, I removed the Dampner assy. (item 603 on the cabinet diagram and parts list) on the back wall of the FF compartment. No cold air flows from the duct coming up from the freezer, but if I open and close the freezer door, I do get puffs of air from this duct and also from the return air ducts on each side in the back. With the freezer door open, I can see light in these ducts, so I think they are all open.

When I looked down the center duct, I could see the blades of the evaporator fan and it is not running. I pressed the FF door switch to see if there's an interlock, but the fan didn't start. I could easily turn the blades with a screwdriver.

Is there a way to measure the main control board pins or any other test points to figure out why the fan is not running?

Also, I still can't figure out how to get the panel off the back of the freezer compartment.

Thanks again for your help,
Leon
Brian R  
#1135 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 7:44:01 AM(UTC)
Brian R

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Hey Gene,

I own a GE Side by Side GSH25KGMD. The past couple days I started to notice the Fan in the Freezer was constantly running. I cleaned the dust off the coils in the back and the fan continues to run. When the freezer fan is running, the fan in the rear by the compressor also runs. At best, the fans stop 2 times per day. With a setting of 0 to 9, we have always had this unit set at 3 (warm side) and had no problems. Now, I see a warmer temp starting to enter the Fridge and we noticed that a small ice pack for lunches did not freeze overnight in freezer.
Where do I start? I have read tons of threads about "Mother Board" Issues. Do I first inspect the coils to look for frost? I guess the answer is yes but I am not sure how to access the coils? The diagram on line did not help me. In this model, are the coils accessed from the inside? Also, in one of your posts you talk about checking the defrost timer (changed that on a different freezer 5 years ago and that unit works fine today) but I do not see such a part with this unit? Is this unit Electronically controlled? Also, in one of the posts someone talks about the temp of the compressor. Yes my compressor is somewhat hot. It does not burn the hands but it is very hot to keep your hand on. When the fan is running back by the compressor, does the compressor run at the same time? If so, how can I tell if it is truely working? I can honestly say I really never heard that compressor run before. If I turn the fridge off for 10 to 15 minutes, will it make some sort of sound that I can be assurred it works? I'm guessing the best case scinario I will need another mother board, but I will wait for your guidance before dropping some $$$
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Brian
443-324-9720
Gene  
#1136 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 3:17:17 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Leon,

You can find the instructions on how to check the fan motor in our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...or-test-replacement.html and http://forum.appliancepartspros...sting-condenser-fan.html

It is recommended to replace both the fan motor and the main control board if any one fails.

- The evaporator fan motor Part number: AP3855880
Part number: AP3855880



- The main control board Part number: AP4436216
Part number: AP4436216



Gene.
Gene  
#1137 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 3:24:55 PM(UTC)
Gene

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HI Brian,

Both fans should run together with the compressor. The compressor can be pretty silent but it should vibrate when it's on.

If the compressor works then you have to inspect the evaporator coils inside the freezer. You have to remove the ice maker and the rear panel in the freezer to access the evaporator coils. Normally they should be about 100% covered with thin snow. Inspect the coils and post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSH25KGMDBB Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
Brian R  
#1138 Posted : Wednesday, March 2, 2011 5:17:50 AM(UTC)
Brian R

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Hey Gene,

Took the back off in the freezer (easy only 2 screws) and got to the coils. From top to bottom, thick layer of frost/ice. It is obvious air is not circulating past the coils. Since this unit GE Fridge #GSH25KGMD appears to be a model that is "electronic", so I guess I can not test for a defrost timer issue. Is it safe to say the mother board went bad? I see the part is $134. Is that easy to take out and replace? Is it a simple unplug the old and plug in the new. I see the access pannel is in the rear of the unit but I have not ventured inside the compartment.
I turned the unit off and overnight I melted all the frost off the coils. Took a blow dryer to get rid of the last ice this morning, put the back wall on and turned unit back on.
As far as the compressor, fired right up with no strange sounds. Within 15 minutes, fridge was already down to 40 and I only had the fridge at a setting of 3 with 9 being the coldest.
I realize the frost will only come back in a week or two, if not sooner but it's difficult on the family life to be with out a fridge with two young kids.
Once again, is there a good chance that if I only replace the mother board my fridge will be back to normal. I can not do any volt testing so I guess I am SOL if you have some plans that include that.
THANKS for any advice and give me your best thoughts, Im sure it will be right on.
Thanks from the East Coast,
Brian R
Gene  
#1139 Posted : Wednesday, March 2, 2011 2:28:55 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Brian,

There are four parts in the defrost circuit in your refrigerator. They are: main control board, defrost heater, defrost thermostat and evaporator thermistor. If you'll go by guessing, without proper troubleshooting, then you can end up replacing all of them. You don't have to do any volt testing. Just a few continuity tests. So a simple ohmmeter for about $15 can save you more $$$.

Let me know what are you going to do.

Gene.
Brian R  
#1140 Posted : Wednesday, March 2, 2011 6:13:04 PM(UTC)
Brian R

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Hey Gene,

Good news is that I talked GE into sending me a Mother Board, so the part is on the way. Apparently there was a class action suit filed in 2006 and model was part of that and I found this info on the WEB. GE DID NOT want to work with me because there was not a RECALL, but after talking with numerous folks, I guess they just cave in to get me off the phone.

As far as "Just a few continuity tests. So a simple ohmmeter for about $15 can save you more $$$", I found someone at work who can do these types of tests on electronics, please do tell me what to do?

The unit is working fine putting out cold air. I put the back on so I am sure the frost is starting to build up if the defrost cycle is not working as expected.

THANKS :) again for all your help and directions

Brian R:D



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