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I have a Kenmore Series 90 dryer. It has no heat when drying, but it spins normally. Lint trap and exhaust has been cleaned.
I saw on other forums posts that possible issues may be 1) Thermal cutoff, 2) High limit thermostat, or 3) dryer heating coil. Also possible inlet and outlet thermistors.
Can someone help me out with some instructions for how to proceed? Should I check the listed items? If so, is there a wiring diagram available and what values do I check for?
If those things are not the right approach, then what should I be looking at?
Any info here would be helpful. Thanks, -Tim
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
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First try resetting the AC panel breaker for the dryer. Then you would need to establish that you have 240vac coming into the dryer. Open the front bottom panel. Place dryer in air only cycle. Check for 120vac to ground at the heater element terminals. One meter probe at ground, the other to one element terminal and then the other terminal. If good, unplug the dryer and check continuity of the operating thermostat, thermal cutoff and hi limit thermostat. Report back with your findings.
Eric
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Eric, Thanks for your reply. I checked the breakers and both were good/on. When it comes to testing all of the electrical components - high limit thermostats etc - do you have a diagram showing where to test at? I'm not real familiar with where all of those parts are inside of the machine. Thanks, -Tim
PS. I'll follow up again once I get a chance to test the incoming voltage etc.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/24/2012(UTC) Posts: 20
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Eric, Thanks for your reply. I checked the breakers and both were good/on. When it comes to testing all of the electrical components - high limit thermostats etc - do you have a diagram showing where to test at? I'm not real familiar with where all of those parts are inside of the machine. Thanks, -Tim
PS. I'll follow up again once I get a chance to test the incoming voltage etc.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
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I wanted you to reset the breaker regardless if it looks like it's on. Sometimes, one half of the breaker can trip internally but the breaker looks like it's still on but only one leg of power is being supplied to the dryer. The dryer heat circuit requires both legs (240vac) but the drive motor only requires one leg (120vac). So try resetting the breaker anyway. The wiring diagram should be inside the control panel. You have to go the the sears parts website and plug in your model number for access to the parts diagrams.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/24/2012(UTC) Posts: 20
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Ok, I tried resetting the breaker - turned them both off and back on (mine happen to be pinned together). That didn't change anything. Still no heat when it was turned on.
After taking the bottom panel off of the front of the dryer, I tested both leads into the heating coil with dryer running. One of them read ~120V, the other read nil.
Is this conclusive, or is there anything else that I should check? Does this mean that there is a power supply in the dryer that has failed?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
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It means you have two problems. For one, the heating element is open. Unplug dryer and check resistance across the element terminals. Normally reads 10 to 12 ohms. Which terminal read nil? Red wire or red/white wire?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/24/2012(UTC) Posts: 20
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Ok, so heating element is likely bad causing an open circuit. I'll test that when I get home from work tonight and will update then.
What is the second problem then?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
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Don't know til you tell me which terminal read nil and which read 120vac.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/24/2012(UTC) Posts: 20
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Ok, thanks. I will update as soon as I can, but it won't be until later tonight.
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