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jessman1128  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 11:30:44 AM(UTC)
jessman1128

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
I think you are on the wrong meter scale not 200 but 200K which is 200,000 ohms.


No, it's 200. I've triple-checked.
jessman1128  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 11:38:25 AM(UTC)
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jessman1128  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2014 12:10:34 PM(UTC)
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Ok, I have to go up to 200k to get anything besides a 1 value. On the 200k scale, the old thermister reads a 57, and the new one reads a 60. Assuming that means it is bad, so I will return and order a new one.
denman  
#14 Posted : Thursday, November 6, 2014 12:21:41 AM(UTC)
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I would say that both are probably OK.

The spec is 48K to 52K @ 77 degrees F and you are fairly close.
The 57 and 60 you see on the meter will be in thousands (K's).
Also if the ambient temperature is colder than 77 degrees the resistance will be higher than the 48 to 50.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
jessman1128  
#15 Posted : Thursday, November 6, 2014 5:15:58 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
The spec is 48K to 52K @ 77 degrees F and you are fairly close.


Oh wow, I somehow missed that the spec was 48-52K and not 48-52. So if that's the case, then when I go back to your original troubleshooting instructions, the only thing that is questionable is the door switch. Well, I do need to re-check the thermister resistance with the wiring included to make sure there's no issue there. I was using the 200 scale previously, so I need to re-check it with the 200k scale. Assuming that checks OK, then I'll replace the door switch and then run a normal load and see what happens.
jessman1128  
#16 Posted : Saturday, November 8, 2014 10:50:47 AM(UTC)
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I replaced the door switch, hooked the drain hose and electrical wires back up, and ran a new Normal cycle. It ran through the entire cycle with no issues! Thank you for all of your help, denman!

I do have another question or two. Does the hi-limit thermostat need to be in a specific location to operate properly? i.e. is there a sensor in the thermostat that reads the surrounding air/surface temperature? I was able to remove the thermostat from underneath the dishwasher originally without too much trouble (had to buy a shorter screwdriver), but I had a lot of trouble last night trying to get it reattached. Most of the problem (I think) is that I can't locate the exact location where the bracket was attached originally. It was screwed in with one screw, but I think part of the bracket itself was also tucked into a slot or something. Not positive though. I felt around under the unit for quite some time but couldn't come up with a location that felt right. I did find a post extending down that felt like it had a tiny hole in it, so I tried to screw the bracket into that hole and the screw went part way in, so it's at least attached to something now and not sitting on the floor. Just wondering if that's going to be okay long-term, or if I need to put more work into getting it attached the original way.
denman  
#17 Posted : Sunday, November 9, 2014 1:32:20 AM(UTC)
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You are welcome.
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.


[COLOR="Blue"]Does the hi-limit thermostat need to be in a specific location to operate properly?[/COLOR]
Yes. It has to make good physical contact with the bottom of the tub.

[COLOR="Blue"] i.e. is there a sensor in the thermostat that reads the surrounding air/surface temperature?[/COLOR]
No.

[COLOR="Blue"]Just wondering if that's going to be okay long-term, or if I need to put more work into getting it attached the original way.[/COLOR]
I cannot say.
It is important that the thermostat's metal face has good contact to the tub.
Have you looked at the video for it (item 30 in section 07) of the parts.
You clip looks similar but is held with the screw so the clip can pit pressure on the thermostat to hold it tight to the tub (I think)

A mirror and a flashlight would be useful here.
A mechanics mirror is ideal. It is like a dentist.'s mirror just larger.
In a pinch a small mirror taped at an angle onto a dowel will work.
I have even used one of my wife's makeup mirror in a compact. I think it was called a compact.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
jessman1128  
#18 Posted : Monday, November 10, 2014 7:02:13 PM(UTC)
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The mirror idea was helpful in determining that, as best as I could tell with the mirror, I had the thermostat in the proper position and just needed to tighten the screw down more - which I successfully did.

Problem is - I'm right back to the dishwasher getting stuck at 63 minutes remaining. So it's back to square one with the testing procedures tomorrow - will see if anything tests differently than the last time around.
jessman1128  
#19 Posted : Tuesday, November 11, 2014 6:37:39 PM(UTC)
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Ok, I tested all of the parts again and they're testing correctly. Strange. The only thing I did differently last night when I put it back together was I put the black plastic cover back over the control board/wires. Tonight I put it back together without that cover and it's now working properly again. I'm wondering if that plastic cover is interfering with the physical operation of the door handle/switch - preventing it from being triggered properly. I'll put it back on tomorrow and see if the problem returns.
jessman1128  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, November 12, 2014 8:04:12 AM(UTC)
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When I initially tested the new door switch last night I couldn't get an exact 0 reading - it would go as low as 0.03 - 0.05, but not 0.00. When I re-tested it later in the evening it was 0.00. Assuming the 0.03 readings are close enough to 0 to be irrelevant. If I'm incorrect on that assumption please let me know.

I ran another cycle this morning without the control board cover and it got stuck at 63 minutes. The problem thus appears to be somewhat random.

I ran it through the Service Diagnostics Cycle this morning and no issues showed up there.

Am I looking at a control board replacement? Or possible door switch issue still? Or something else?
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