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Dryer won't start. Changed all thermostats and fuse
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Model: AED4475TQ1 Brand: Admiral Age: 1 - 5 years
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rudekelly  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 23, 2014 6:55:22 PM(UTC)
rudekelly

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One day my dryer just didn't start. I changed the thermal fuse 1st and still didn't start. So I changed the high thermostat with thermal cut off thermostat kit. Still didn't turn on but when turn dial to timer I could hear ticking sound. So would it be the start button or settings knob or what? Clueless right now and dryers been out for almost year now.:confused:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, April 24, 2014 2:56:49 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag AED4475TQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]I changed the thermal fuse 1st and still didn't start.[/COLOR]
I am assuming that this was the one on the blower. It is in series with the motor.

[COLOR="Blue"]So I changed the high thermostat with thermal cut off thermostat kit.[/COLOR]
The above parts do not effect the motor. They do effect the heater and the timer motor when in timed dry.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Still didn't turn on but when turn dial to timer I could hear ticking sound.[/COLOR]
Does it advance?

Also check it in an auto cycle to see if the timer advances. Does it?

If the timer does not advance in an auto mode, check the heater with a meter. It should be around 8 to 12 ohms.

The reason is that you may have two problems in the unit, at least the symptoms point towards this.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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rudekelly  
#3 Posted : Thursday, April 24, 2014 7:21:44 AM(UTC)
rudekelly

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Posts: 3
denman

In timer mode it does advance and then it stops and no ticking after 10 minutes.

In auto sense dry cycle it does not advance and also no ticking at all.
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rudekelly  
#4 Posted : Thursday, April 24, 2014 7:23:09 AM(UTC)
rudekelly

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Posts: 3
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag AED4475TQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]I changed the thermal fuse 1st and still didn't start.[/COLOR]
I am assuming that this was the one on the blower. It is in series with the motor.

[COLOR="Blue"]So I changed the high thermostat with thermal cut off thermostat kit.[/COLOR]
The above parts do not effect the motor. They do effect the heater and the timer motor when in timed dry.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Still didn't turn on but when turn dial to timer I could hear ticking sound.[/COLOR]
Does it advance?

Also check it in an auto cycle to see if the timer advances. Does it?

If the timer does not advance in an auto mode, check the heater with a meter. It should be around 8 to 12 ohms.

The reason is that you may have two problems in the unit, at least the symptoms point towards this.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

denman

In timer mode it does advance and then it stops and no ticking after 10 minutes.

In auto sense dry cycle it does not advance and also no ticking at all.
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denman  
#5 Posted : Friday, April 25, 2014 3:44:20 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I am not sure why the timer will run for 10 minutes and then stop.
Would be a good idea to check the power.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

If the power is OK .
Unplug the unit ans set the timer to mid scale heated timed dry cycle.
Attach (tape or clip) one meter lead to L1 either at the line cord prong and leave it there.
Set your meter to it's most sensitive resistance scale. It is also a good idea to short the meter leads together before statin to see if there is a zero offset in the meter.

C and B connectors on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms
4M on the motor should be 0 ohms.
5M on the motor should be about 1.5 ohms (motor windings).
White or white/red at the push to start switch should be about 1.5 ohms.
With the switch activated, black on the switch should be 1.5 ohms.
Keep the start switch activated.
With the door switch activated Common and Normally Open should be 1.5 ohms.
Keep this switch activated
The Neutral pron on the line cord should be 1.5 ohms.

The above is the entire motor circuit.
File Attachment(s):
AED4475.pdf (139kb) downloaded 1 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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