My washer is still holding up, and I tried to fix the washer again.

Do the spinner bolts need to be removed? Looking at the pictures, it looks like those bolts only hold on a ring-like metal disc, that sits on top of the spinner, but they don't secure the spinner to the inner or outer tub.

I was thinking that if I just undo the spinner nut, I can disassemble the spinner without having to remove the spinner bolts, and still replace the inner tub seal and bearings.

So I attempted the socket trick, and ended up not succeeding. I was able to keep the spinner nut in place with a socket, but I kept dinging up the spinner support shaft to the point that my wrench couldn't apply much torque to the shaft. I was mindful of needing to turn the shaft clockwise. I did try rotating CW-CCW-CW to try and break the nut free, and did use some PB blaster. I filed the shaft dings down and re-assembled to washer for use for now.

I was thinking of buying the spanner wrench and Plate-Loc. But wasn't sure if I was unsuccessful because the spinner bolts were still in place. Does anyone know if it is necessary to take out the spinner bolts in order to take out the spinner nut?

Also, are there any alternate part sites (or part numbers) to buy the spanner wrench and Plate-Loc? I see that part numbers AP4022235 and AP4022967 are not available on the appliancepartspros.com site.

Thanks for the help Dick!



My best guess is that the inner tub seal has failed, and subsequently one of of the spinner support bearings has also started to fail. I posted earlier a month ago (this same thread), about my belt burning out. I was able to disassemble the unit down to the spinner bolts, but stripped two of the bolts (just like in 2nd pic of post #2). I didn't have the tools capable of pulling the stripped studs out, so I just put the unit back together. The bearing in the clutch pulley was stuck (rusted from the tub seal leak), but I was able to refurb it back into working condition. I then covered the clutch pulley cover with tape and marine grease to keep the leaking water out of the clutch as a stop gap measure to keep the washer working through the holidays (50+ cycles so far). With these measures in place, the washer works, but is very loud during spin cycle, even though I have the washer balanced. Also small amounts of water leak out from under the tub after every cycle. During the disassembly, I did not see any corrosion past the transmission o-ring (unlike pics 1 and 7 of post #106) the , so I don't think that seal failed. I did replace that seal regardless.



Yes - I have some friends to help with the lift. I have already been able to remove the outer tub (with the inner tub still in place), and flipped it upside down so I could attempt to remove the spinner nut.



Ok. So this is good to know, as I'm pretty sure it is one of the Spinner Support bearings that also need to be replaced (I was planning on replacing both while I was in there). I was able to replace the tranny o-ring already (first picture on post #104), with the spinner bolts still in place. But if I can't replace the spinner support bearings, then I think I'll just pass on buying the tools. My hope was that I could lift the outer tub off the spinner support plate after I removed the spinner nut. And even though the inner tub (or spinner as I just realized that's what the Service Manual calls it) was still attached to the other side of the spinner support plate, I thought I would have free access to the spinner support bearings in the outer tub.




Unfortunately I don't have access to an air/electric impact tool, or a 1.75 socket. I was able to find a maytag spanner wrench on ******** for $30, and that seems like the cheaper tooling option at this time. I'll call around some tool rental places and see if they rent out the impact tool and socket.


Thanks again for the help and insight!

Hello Leah,


You can order the Clutch Pulley assembly thru this forum;

Whirlpool 12002211 Pulley & Clutch Assy - AppliancePartsPros.com

That is really good service if you have never had the Clutch Pulley replaced for DC or UC unbalance errors.

Have your friend read through the beginning of the post and remove the clutch pulley and inspect. If possible let us know if the clutch pulley has the upper one-way bearing ring used as part of the clutch pulley assembly. You will get that part as part of the replacement clutch pulley if you order it.

There are pics that point out that upper one-way bearing ring. If your series FAV6800A has that part installed from the factory then you have what I refer to as a 1st generation outer tub design for the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines. If you elect to do an Outer Tub rebuild parts are a bit cheaper and the rebuild is a bit easier.

When you remove and inspect the clutch pulley you will find the issues causing the DC unbalance error code. The One-Way bearing in the clutch pulley hub will more than likely show signs of wash water contamination caused by tub seal leak.

If you can take pic’s and post of the condition of the clutch pulley that would help.

If are going to rebuild the Outer Tub down the road I will try to help as best I can from here………Dick

All parts are called out in this thread for both Outer Tub designs. By that I mean 1st generation Outer Tub design = your machine uses the Upper One-Way Bearing ring above the Clutch Pulley.

2nd generation moved the Upper One-Way bearing ring functionality to the lower Outer Tub bearing assembly using this type of bearing.....Google CSK207.....that is the type of bearing used in the lower Outer Tub. Upper Outer Tub bearing uses a standard 6207-2RS.

All info is in this thread for both Outer Tub designs. I prefer to stay in the thread for support so others can benefit from other owners support........Dick

""the clothes in knots returned"" Ya lost me.......tumblers wash action always leaves the wash load twisted up.

Only an O-Ring between bottom of transmission Spinner Support so that failed?

""The seal was ruined by rust on the shaft. Soo, I need a new shaft, but can't seem to find one.""

What seal are you describing? Can you post s pic?

As far as I know the agitator shaft comes with the Spinner Support as an assembly. I sold off my spare Spinner Support a while back. It was new picked up off a bid site for $50 shipped to the house.

Can you clean up the agitator shaft or is it severely pitted?

Your pic link to your agitator shaft did not work for me....may be an issue on my side.....can you navigate OK to the pic when you click on that link?

Glad your series 10 machine or any series FAV6800A/FAV9800A used the One-Way Upper Bearing ring. Make the Outer Tub rebuild a bit less of a PITA.

Yea the thread is long not a clean DIY guide.

Some pics attached so others know what we are discussing.
Dick

Edit........Looks like I need to log into your host site. Attack a pic here on this site it easier for all to comment about.