Yes I have the SM, also was does CCW and CW mean, I have read a lot of the first couple pages of the post. This is what I have for parts right now
1 tub Seal 25001090
1 Tub O ring 25001105
2 Outter tub bearing 6207-2rs ( Do I only need one since I need the CSK207?)
1 upper spinner support 6002-2rs
1 Lower shell shaft bearing SCE-910
1 Clutch Pulley 25001169

I didn't pay anything for my washer, my mom didn't want to fix it and just got a new set. So whatever I have into the washer is a great deal for a matching set

Error on my part I believe there are shims needed when using the CSK207 bearing. If I can find the posts of of owners that used this bearing with shim used I will point out. Need to get ready for work.........Dick

Boca Bearing is the only place I found with that bearing. It's not cheap, but it's much cheaper than a new washer. The CSK207 is the same thickness as a 6207 bearing, but the original one-way upper bearing on the later model washers was thicker than the 6207 by a few millimeters. To make up the difference, I used one or two M36 washers which have a 36mm inner hole and about a 1mm thickness. The amount that it is tightened is somewhat important: it needs to be tight enough to hold together, but not so tight that you mis-align the bearings and cause them to bind up. The spacers are important because there is only so much of the spindle that is threaded and you need to make up the extra height of the old bearing.

Expect to have to re-build in a few years anyway. The seals are only good for so long, and eventually will start to fail. Then soapy, dirty water will leak down the shaft into and through the bearings. The clutch bearing will see the worst of it since water will collect there, but the soap will eat at the grease on the way down (which is why I try to pack bearings and seals with white waterproof grease wherever possible). Preventative maintenance of re-packing the clutch bearing with white grease every year might help, but honestly, who remembers or takes the time?

Just pay attention to which way it spins before you take the shaft assembly apart. You could try using a Sharpie marker on the ouside of the tub to indicate which direction rotation should occur so you don't get it backward. I think I put mine in backward the first time and had to remove the bearing and flip it. In theory, you could use the 6002 in the upper position and the CSK207 in the lower position if that makes installation easier. In the long run, this might be a much better idea as well. The upper bearing is probably more prone to failure as it is closer to the leaking water, so the less expensive and less critical 6002 might be better here.

Also, I borrowed bearing pullers from my local auto parts store - they usually let you borrow them for free if you leave your credit card number as collateral.

A 2' long, 1/2" ratchet extension was very useful for pounding out old bearings.

Instead of the "proper" Maytag tool to keep the shaft from rotating, I just found one of my sockets that was about the right size and used it as a wedge to prevent rotation.

Give yourself plenty of space to work and use a tarp because a washer and it's parts take up alot of space once broken apart and can drip water and gunk everywhere. Keep you parts and tools organized (I like to use smaller plastic "Ziplock" brand food tubs or shoebox sized plastic bins), print out the service manual for reference, and take your time. It will take a while to figure out the tricks of how it's put together and goes back together, but afterward you'll be an expert and could re-do it in 1/4 the time.

hello,
i have been reading this thread with great interest since finding it. i to am suffering the same trouble as everyone else w/ my series 13 maytag. first i would like to extend a grateful 'thank you' to all who have taken the time to post all the great info. i have completed the tear-down & clean-up of the parts. all went pretty smoothly. have ordered a complete set of bearings. only had to go to 2 sources; amazon, & boca bearings. ordered the m36 washers from mcmaster-carr industrial supply. the parts person i chatted with on this web site must not look @ the forum much, since did not have clue that bearings could be replaced. kept trying to sell me the whole outer tub.

only question i'm throwing out is whether the main 2-part seal, & large o-ring are universal to all serial nos.? those are the last pieces i need to order, and just wanted to double check.

clutch assy. was damaged, but fixable. de-greased & acid washed rusty bearings, then re-lubed. inside spring pin had fallen out, but no damage to spring. the alum. reinforce ring in the outer tub was pretty corroded, but acid scrubbed it & it cleaned up nicely. have very hard water here in so. cal., so bad deposits. am going to have that ring powder coated to prevent future corrosion. was hard to get out. will be using synthetic marine grease to re-lube things. looking forward to getting thing back together soon. thanks again to all.

lynn