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pauloconnor98  
#241 Posted : Tuesday, December 3, 2013 8:24:24 AM(UTC)
pauloconnor98

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I'm running into a similar issue.

My belt broke after I heard a lot of whirring/humming noises. I was inside the house, and didn't know where the noise was coming from. When I went into the garage, I smelled the burnt rubber and started to troubleshoot. The washer stopped mid-cycle, with water still in the tub. I used the service mode to activate the drain pump, and it successfully pumped out the water.

I removed the front panel and found a broken belt = burnt rubber.

I could hand spin the tub CCW, but it would not spin CW. I have disassembled my machine, taking out the clutch pulley, tumblers, and the transmission. The two top transmission gears do rotate smoothly both ways. But the inner tub will still not spin CW. I'm still waiting for the PB Blaster to loosen the Spinner Nuts so I can verify if it is the bearings that are bad before I order replacement parts. Alas, the long weekend is over, and I am limited in my hours to work on the machine. I want to further disassemble the machine to verify that the issue is the seal/bearings before I buy them (otherwise I would just use that money towards a new machine).

But if this info already indicates that the problem is the seal and bearings, I'll go ahead and order them now and hopefully I can get the parts in before the weekend.

Also, when I removed the clutch pulley, there was some water that leaked out, and the clutch looked with water was getting in there. I remember when I rebuilt the clutch/pulley a year and a half ago, it was completely dry (other than some slight lube on the coil).

Thanks!
dh1200s  
#242 Posted : Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:20:20 PM(UTC)
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""I could hand spin the tub CCW, but it would not spin CW""

The wash basket should never rotate CW in normal operation.

The One-Way bearing above the Clutch Pulley what I call 1st generation Outer Tub prevents CW rotation of the Wash basket.

Can you tell us if you machine series uses the Upper One-Way bearing ring? See exploded view of the Clutch Pulley in the beginning of this thread.

If no Upper Bearing Ring then your machine uses the Lower Outer Tub bearing that has a combined bearing.....CSK207 type that is half ball bearing to support CCW Clutch Pulley rotation (Spin Direction) and part One-Way bearing to prevent wash basket CW rotation when the machine is wash cycle Clutch Pulley CW rotation.

Last several post in this thread deal with 2 generation Outer Tub.

Water above the Clutch Pulley is caused by Tub Seal wash water leak or Tranny O-Ring leak with wash water coming down the agitator shaft.

I'm slow to post at times but others may jump in to help you with any questions.....Dick
pauloconnor98  
#243 Posted : Wednesday, December 4, 2013 6:00:03 AM(UTC)
pauloconnor98

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Thanks for the help.

I have a 15 series FAV6800AWW.

I found an older post of yours with the pictures. I have attached which one mine looks like, and which one mine does not look like.

I think mine is the one that does not have the Upper Bearing Ring.
pauloconnor98 attached the following image(s):
Not like this.JPG
Mine looks like this.JPG
dh1200s  
#244 Posted : Wednesday, December 4, 2013 9:21:18 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Yep I'm holding the upper bearing ring in the 1st pic. The One-Way bearing in that ring locks up for Clutch Pulley CW/agitate direction preventing the wash basket from rotating CW during the agitate part of the wash cycle. It allows the spinner support to rotate freely in the CCW/Spin direction of the wash cycle.

When you do your tear down I believe you will find that lower outer tub combination bearing One-Way bearing failed and locked up during spin cycle and caused belt failure.......but that is a WAG from here.....tear down will confirm the fail point.

Wash water has made it past the Tub Seal and or the Tranny O-Ring.

What is the status of the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing? Did the Spinner Support Coupler (my name for it seen 2nd pic) remove easily from the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing plate?

I have no hands on replacing that combo bearing i.e. CSK-207 type bearing but others have in this thread. I would review those post if you are going to rebuild the machine.........Dick
pauloconnor98  
#245 Posted : Thursday, December 5, 2013 5:38:48 AM(UTC)
pauloconnor98

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Thanks for your help Dick.

I ordered the belt, tranny and tub seal as well as the two tub bearings, just waiting for them to come in.

As for the the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing, it doesn't move anymore. The coupler was actually stuck inside the bearing. It came out with some light hammering. I sprayed it with PB Blaster, and I'll try to clean it after I get off work, but I'll most likely just end up buying a new one.

If the new Clutch Pulley doesn't come in before the weekend, will the rest of the rebuild still work, or would I just prematurely wear the belt?
dh1200s  
#246 Posted : Thursday, December 5, 2013 10:10:23 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Quote:
I ordered the belt, tranny and tub seal as well as the two tub bearings, just waiting for them to come in.

1 62072RS and 1 CSK207 Type correct?
Quote:
As for the the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing, it doesn't move anymore. The coupler was actually stuck inside the bearing. It came out with some light hammering. I sprayed it with PB Blaster, and I'll try to clean it after I get off work, but I'll most likely just end up buying a new one.

Yep common problem I would replace the Clutch Pulley.
Quote:
If the new Clutch Pulley doesn't come in before the weekend, will the rest of the rebuild still work, or would I just prematurely wear the belt?

You could pound out the old bearings seat the new. I believe you are using the CSK207 bearing for the Lower Outer Tub bearing? Forum member Fenris has rock solid tips on the rebuild really pay attention to the orientation of the CSK207 bearing…………as he speaks to........thanks again Fenris.

I have not rebuilt an Outer Tub that requires that type of bearing. As Fenris calls out and as others have mentioned you will need to build out that bearing with shims due to reduced bearing thickness of the CSK207 replacement bearing.

If you can get that coupler to rotate freely one direction and lock up in the other direction in the white clutch bearing plate you could give the old clutch pulley a try but I would not trust. Replace with the new Clutch Pulley assembly when it arrives............Dick
pauloconnor98  
#247 Posted : Friday, December 6, 2013 8:25:25 PM(UTC)
pauloconnor98

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Thanks again for the help.

The tub seal, tranny seal, and two tub bearings came in. Still waiting for the belt to come in.

I'm really having a hard time getting the spinner bolts off. With lots of PB Blaster (many hourly applications), a breaker bar, double wrench technique, and trying to using my drill in forward/reverse, I have only managed to get one bolt off.

Searched the web for tricks. I don't have an impact wrench or a torch (or know anyone I can borrow from), so the only thing left is to try 50/50 auto transmission oil / acetone instead of the PB Blaster. If I can't get the bolts off by the time the belt comes, I"ll just replace the tranny seal and hope the system can hold up for a few months so I can save for a new machine.

I was able to refurb the clutch pulley so that it works well again. I'm glad I didn't order a replacement yet. It only makes sense to replace it if I can do the whole rebuild.

If I can't get the spinner bolts off, hopefully it was just the tranny seal that was bad. The bottom of the tub bearing looks ok, so we'll see.

I was really hoping to do the rebuild, but these spinner bolts are a real bummer. With the flanged bolts, do you think the PB Blaster is really able to soak down to the thread?
dh1200s  
#248 Posted : Friday, December 6, 2013 9:13:51 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Quote:
I was really hoping to do the rebuild, but these spinner bolts are a real bummer. With the flanged bolts, do you think the PB Blaster is really able to soak down to the thread?


I snapped one off using my 1/2" impact wrench.........they can be a PITA to break loose.

Quote:
With the flanged bolts, do you think the PB Blaster is really able to soak down to the thread?


For me I used Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster and I snapped one off. Other folks were able to get them out. I think one other poster in this thread broke one or two off. Give your penetrating mix a try......Good luck
AntonioStogsdill  
#249 Posted : Saturday, December 7, 2013 2:56:14 AM(UTC)
AntonioStogsdill

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That would not be an issue i guess.


Xtreme Nitro
pauloconnor98  
#250 Posted : Tuesday, December 10, 2013 1:10:43 PM(UTC)
pauloconnor98

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I ended up breaking the head on one bolt, and actually broke one bolt in the middle of the threaded area.

I tried to remove the stuck partials using a left handed drill bit, but the cheap Harbor Freight drills would not cut into the metal. I did use a center punch and then cut a starter hole with a center drill. Nonetheless, I couldn't get the drills to cut into the bolts. The Harbor Freight tools was the price point of toolage that I was willing to lose in trying to saving the machine.

So I just replaced the tranny o-ring, and re-assembled the washer. I put a lot of marine grease over the clutch pulley bearing to try and keep any water out of the bearing. I also layered some tape on the outer plastic ring and then added more grease around the coupler in an effort to keep water out of the clutch spring area.

Ran an empty cycle to test things out and clear out all the PB Blaster I unloaded into the tub. The system is very loud - not sure how long that bad bearing will last. I hear new washer sales are good between Christmas and New Years, so hopefully I can get another 2 weeks out of the machine.

Learned a lot though, and I see that I'll be hopefully get at least $300 when I part out the machine (transmission, control board & display , motor & belt, clutch pulley, 2 tumblers, 2 tumbler bearings, agitator shaft, load balance sensor, struts, drain pump).
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