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Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Sorry to hear it. If the new sister board will fix it and you still have the old door latch, put it back and give it a try. If the problem was just a bad sister board, return the door latch to APP.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 8  Location: CA
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I replaced the board w/ the original latch and I'm still get the F5 error. I put the new latch in and still F5 error. The panel should be here tomorrow. Is there any chance it fixes things or should I really be worried about resolving this F5 problem?
I made a note that the tan wires connect to C1 on the original latch which I assume is COM on the new one. I even tried switching them both w/ no luck.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
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You said earlier that you replaced the electronic control. Was it the Part number: W10406070
Is it still installed or you removed it? I attached the tech sheet for this oven so, you can check the schematic for proper connections. Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 8 Location: CA
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That is what I originally replaced. It started giving me the F2-E6 error for about a month before going completely dark. That tech sheet looks right on the money. Thank you.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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The new board has gone bad? Did I get it right?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 8 Location: CA
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I'm stuck right now. I am reading (and re-reading) one of your older posts re: "shorting a DBL" (per the tech sheet). There you mention removing the red wire coming from the terminal block to the control board. I'm looking at this old control board as a reference and the DBL appears to be in a harness of spade connections (which was a bear to remove the first time). Am I looking at the right connector?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 8 Location: CA
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I think you are right. After removing that harness and checking continuity between both sister boards and the latch it tested at 1800 Ohms. I'm going to have to try and send this control board back and see if I can get the old one repaired.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 8 Location: CA
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Gene - on a wind and a prayer I installed the new Control Panel that arrived today. I connected it to the original latch and original sister board - started up - and NO errors!
My problem did not end though. I tried to set the cavity size based on the tech note but it will not allow me in. I did it upon start up, I waited for the lock cycle to finish, my wife and I even tried pushing all 8 buttons at once.
I figured I'd mess around w/ it after the kids went to bed and we went to make some nuggets for the kids and now the oven (upper and lower) won't let you go above 350. I know it's hot but the only thermometer I have on hand goes up to 200.
SIGH...Thoughts?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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The size of your oven is 30". The control board comes preset for 30" and needs adjustments only if the oven is 27" wide. I have no clue which buttons and in what sequence did you push trying to set the cavity size. This oven has a lot of different adjustments for display and temperature. I hope the Owners manual will help. Gene. P.S. There is a big difference between the control panel and the control board. It is very important to call them right.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 8 Location: CA
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This was a new panel. The old board and old panel are sitting next to me right now - as are a replacement latch and sister board that may need to go back to APP.
To recap - I originally replaced the control board. I then started getting a latch and a keypad error. I then got a replacement latch, sister board, and panel in that order.
After installing the latch and the sister board I was still getting F5/E1 and F2/E1 errors.
I re-installed the original latch and sister board when the new control panel arrived today just on a whim. It powered up w/ zero errors.
I'm not 100% convinced that the replacement board I have installed right now is working right since I can't heat the oven past 350. All of the elements get hot (upper/lower bake and broil). It just won't let me move the temp past 350 - I can go down but now above. I was hoping that it was an initialization problem w/ the new board/panel combination but I'm continuing to Google.
BTW...It is b/c of you and the APP team that I have made this my #1 stop for appliance issues. I have a water valve for the fridge from APP that should be here tomorrow - but that is a different project. Thanks again!
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