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Here's the strange part: If I run the machine with the element leads connected to the element, I get 110V on each element lead when tested to ground, but 0V between the leads.[/COLOR]
This is not that strange.
I do not know how much electrical you know so will try to explain it.
The house voltage is actually two 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one (L1) is at positive 120, the other (L2) is at negative 120, this gives you the 240 volts (L1 to L2). Note that neutral/ground is not part of the 240 circuit.
When you use Neutral as one side of your meter you see 120 volts on both sides of the element but since the element is good (has continuity), this is probably the same side of the line. In other words the element is not connected to ground so no current flows therefore you see the same voltage at both sides.
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Continuity is good at 11ohms. If I disconnect the leads and check voltage between them with the machine running, I get 220V.
Again, I get no voltage across these leads when hooked up to the element, but 220V when disconnected. I must be missing something here. Can anyone add clarity here??
Also, when the timer is in Timed mode,, I don't get the 220V at the disconnected element leads, so I'm guessing that that side of the timer is bad, but in the Auto modes I get the 220V at the leads.[/COLOR]
I hope I did not confuse the livin out of you above because this is going to be a bit more complicated.
I think when you measure using Neutral/ground as a reference you are seeing the L2 voltage.
When in timed dry the timer motor is not connected into the heater circuit.
When in auto modes it is through the resistor.
So the L1 side of the line conducts through the timer motor and the resistor so you see 240 volts. But the resistance of the motor resistor combo is so high it limits the current to a low level (0.05 amp approx.) So you do not get any heat, also you do not see any voltage across the element when connected (0.05 amps times 11 ohms would give a voltage of 0.55 volts.
All the 240 is dropped across the timer/resistor.
All the above was just FYI and i am not sure I did a very good job of it.
In any case I agree with you, it is probably the timer since you have checked the Thermal Cutoff, the Operating Thermostat, the Hi-limit Thermostat and the heater.
To confirm this put the unit mid cycle of a heating mode, unplug the unit and one wire from Timer switch 2.
Measure across Timer Switch 2, it should be 0 ohms.
If not is is blown and the timer needs replacing.
