Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Snakebone  
#1 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2012 11:40:23 AM(UTC)
Snakebone

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 4

Very perplexed about this one. Dryer will not heat on any setting but blower runs. I have 220V at terminal block (110 on each feed to center and 220 from outside feeds). All thermostats and thermal fuse have continuity as well as hi-limit switch. I replaced the heating element even though the old one had 11ohms as does the new one. The element is not shorted to ground.
Here's the strange part: If I run the machine with the element leads connected to the element, I get 110V on each element lead when tested to ground, but 0V between the leads. Continuity is good at 11ohms. If I disconnect the leads and check voltage between them with the machine running, I get 220V.
Again, I get no voltage across these leads when hooked up to the element, but 220V when disconnected. I must be missing something here. Can anyone add clarity here??

I checked all thermostat continuity with a wire disconnected.

Also, when the timer is in Timed mode,, I don't get the 220V at the disconnected element leads, so I'm guessing that that side of the timer is bad, but in the Auto modes I get the 220V at the leads.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
rickgburton  
#2 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2012 11:36:12 PM(UTC)
rickgburton

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/21/2012(UTC)
Posts: 263

Look at the two red wires on the element. One is coming from the high-limit, thermal cutoff and timer. The other wire is coming from the motor switch. Remove the wire coming from the motor switch from the terminal on the element. Position it so it doesn’t touch anything. Select timed dry, high heat and start the dryer. Use your volt meter to measure the voltage from the wire you just disconnected to ground (cabinet screw) and then measure the voltage from the wire still connected to the element to ground. One will read 120 VAC and one will read 0 VAC. Open the door then unplug the machine and leave the timer on the timed dry setting. If the wire from the motor switch measured 0 VAC, replace the motor. If the wire on the element measured 0 VAC, check the high limit thermostat and thermal cut off for continuity. Check for continuity between the red wire and the black wire on the timer. If your meter shows 1 or infinite resistance, replace the timer.
rickgburton attached the following image(s):
Basic Heating Element Circuit.jpg
Users browsing this topic
Similar Topics
Kitchenaid dryer doesn't heat (Dryer Repair)
by Snakebone 11/8/2012 11:31:10 AM(UTC)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.