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df_3  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 12, 2012 6:12:08 PM(UTC)
df_3

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My Kenmore (110.46462501, yr 2006) front load washer stopped running mid cycle 2 nites ago. The door would not unlock, even after pulling the plug and plugging back in. The manual showed me where the pull tab was to open the door. I unloaded everything and tried to run the diagnostics (bypassing the service history mode). After pressing the 2nd Rinse Option button 4x, the door would lock (the light would go on and can hear the click) and the light for Rinse Spin would blink but nothing would happen. Pressing the 2nd Rinse Option button to advance to the next step of the test would also not do anything. Have to unplug the unit to get the door back open again. A service tech came and said it was the pump motor. He installed it and it still would not work. I had him put my old one back in and asked him to leave. Figured I had a great experience w/ you guys last time (I replaced the CCU, MCU and Bellow in March 2011 w/ your help), that I'd again ask for your expertise.

Is there a way to test the door latch to see if that is the issue?

What else should I look for?
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df_3  
#2 Posted : Thursday, September 13, 2012 4:11:34 PM(UTC)
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anyone? not sure how to test door latch? could it be the CMU again? How do you test that, when the machine won't run the diagnostics?
Gene  
#3 Posted : Friday, September 14, 2012 4:20:51 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: df_3 Go to Quoted Post
...I unloaded everything and tried to run the diagnostics (bypassing the service history mode)...


Why did you choose this kind of the diagnostic test? Service history mode and diagnostic test is much more informative and helpful. Run this test as described in the attached tech sheet (page 7). Follow the instructions very careful and post the results.

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
Tech Sheet - 8540259 - 11046462501.pdf (251kb) downloaded 296 time(s).
df_3  
#4 Posted : Sunday, September 16, 2012 1:03:33 PM(UTC)
df_3

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I had run the service history one first, but it wouldn't run the diagnostic, so did it bypassing the service history to see if it would run. When i first had the problem I only had the F24 code (2 x) and the F22 code (1x). Just ran the service history again, and now I get F28 first, followed by F4 2x and then F22. When it goes into diagnostic, the door locked light turns on, followed by an audible click and the Drain & Spin light blinking. Nothing else happens.

Will be checking for loose wires now. Not sure how to check for worn or failed parts. When I had problems w/ this washer 18 mo ago, it was able to run through the diagnostics. Now it doesn't get past the door lock click.

I do have a small tear in the front lip of the bellow that leaks water out of the front of the machine. Don't think it has anything to do w/ my issue, but bringing it up just to make sure.
df_3  
#5 Posted : Monday, September 17, 2012 5:36:53 AM(UTC)
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Did not find any loose connections. Unplugged and replugged main connections to CMU. Also unplugged and replugged connections to door latch. Still same error codes.
Gene  
#6 Posted : Monday, September 17, 2012 2:36:53 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Looks like the problem is a bad CCU. You may want to check the door latch as described in the attached instructions before replacing the CCU.

-The CCU Part number: W10273502
Part number: W10273502

- The door latch assembly Part number: W10253483
Part number: W10253483

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
Duet sport - The door switch test.doc (235kb) downloaded 42 time(s).
Duet sport - the CCU connectors and removal.doc (1,249kb) downloaded 17 time(s).
df_3  
#7 Posted : Monday, September 17, 2012 5:05:09 PM(UTC)
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Gene, thanks for the help. I tested the door latch. For DL3, I got 125 ohms for pins 1 and 3 and 61 ohms for pins 2 and 3. For DS2, I got 1.2 ohms door closed and infinite @ door open.

Since my resistance for pins 1 and 3 were 2x higher than what it should be, does that indicate door switch should be replaced? Thinking of replacing this first, and hoping I don't need to replace the CMU again.

Dennis
Gene  
#8 Posted : Monday, September 17, 2012 5:12:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: df_3 Go to Quoted Post
...Since my resistance for pins 1 and 3 were 2x higher than what it should be, does that indicate door switch should be replaced?...


Yes, Dennis. It does point to a bad door latch.

Gene.
df_3  
#9 Posted : Saturday, September 22, 2012 8:31:53 AM(UTC)
df_3

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Ordered the door latch and CCU. Replaced both today and still does not work. When I try to run a load, the door locked light turns on and the add a garment light turns on. Nothing else happens.

I re-ran the diagnostics. It does not show any fault codes. It goes to the Drain and Spin cycle (lights up), but nothing happens besides the click for the door latch.


I also measured the resistance on the new door latch, and I get the same 60 / 125 ohms that I got w/ the old door latch.

Any advice? It will be 2 weeks since it broke this coming Monday. I need to get her fixed before my wife kills me...

Dennis
Gene  
#10 Posted : Saturday, September 22, 2012 12:05:01 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: df_3 Go to Quoted Post
...I re-ran the diagnostics. It does not show any fault codes. It goes to the Drain and Spin cycle (lights up), but nothing happens besides the click for the door latch...


Hi Dennis,

This is very strange. Such different readings for the door lock/unlock solenoids not suppose to be as well as no error codes. I would recommend to request the parts exchange due to the parts warranty.

Gene.
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