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The timer is a possibility.
Cannot say for sure if it is without meter tests when you have the problem but it is now at the top of the list.
It is one part which is common to both no heat and no timer advance problems
Also it should not make any noise when you just move it.
FYI
The second thermal fuse is Item 9 is Section 3.
Note it comes with a new high limit thermostat when ordered.
But since you have heat again, it should be OK. |
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Ok. Tell me what to test on the timer and how to do it, and I will test like no man has ever tested before
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You have to wait till it breaks again.
Then unplug it and check the timers contacts/switches.
For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
For no timer advance - TIMER SWITCH 0 TM to WB
Both the above should be 0 ohms
If OK then the other components is the circuits path as shown earlier. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  You have to wait till it breaks again.
Then unplug it and check the timers contacts/switches.
For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
For no timer advance - TIMER SWITCH 0 TM to WB
Both the above should be 0 ohms
If OK then the other components is the circuits path as shown earlier. then for no heat -TIMER SWITCH 2 and put other lead to timer body?
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well again in the morning no heat...
TM to WB 7.34kohms
not sure i under stand the "For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
" part hope this is what you were saying....the timmer is ticking(when pluged it)....i test this right?
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well again in the morning no heat...
TM to WB 7.34kohms
Sorry do not understand this.
If in an Auto cycle it should read 0 ohms as you are basically reading across a set of closed contacts.
not sure i under stand the "For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
" part hope this is what you were saying....the timmer is ticking(when pluged it)....i test this right?
Unplug the unit.
And measure across the contacts, should be 0 ohms. |
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Ok on auto dry...unpluged the unit and it read 0 from TM to WB ... I did test the W,T,TM too ( don't know if needed but all 0)
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Ok on auto dry...unpluged the unit and it read 0 from TM to WB
This looks OK
I did test the W,T,TM too ( don't know if needed but all 0)
Could not relate this back to the wiring diagram.
Sounds like the dryer is playing with you.
Unplug the unit.
Try to move the components as little as possible.
I would place one lead on the heater red wire right hand side (re: wiring diagram). I think it should have a single red wire. Leave the meter lead here for the following tests. Use a low meter scale re 200 ohms.
Then measure to the left side, should be approximately 10 ohms.
If OK
Then to the left side of the HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side or the OPERATING THERMOSTAT, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side of the THERMAL CUTOFF NOT RESETTABLE, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side of the TIME SWITCH 2 (Black L1 on the timer), should be ~10 ohms.
You have now checked almost the entire heater circuit path.
If all OK, all the is left is the centrifugal switch.
Though my gut says heater coil. What can happen is a break in the coil. It opens when it heats up and then closes again when the coil cools down. But this is just a gut feeling.
Hopefully you will find the bad component with the above checks.
If not get back and we will have to check the centrifugal switch.
This must be done with power to the unit (motor running) so is a tad dangerous.
That is why I have not included it here. |
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All passed 9.8-9.9. I have the dryer away from the wall back off so nothing gets mover (any more) kinda was thinking that moving it might change stuff...testing it running is fine....one question the THERMAL CUTOFF is the one up top on the housing for the coil right? I feel like I'm speaking a new language lol
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ne question the THERMAL CUTOFF is the one up top on the housing for the coil right?
Yes.
The white one on the blower is for the motor.
Lets try this
With unit still unplugged
Put your meter on L1 and L2 of the power cord
Should be an open circuit (infinite ohms)
Now turn the drum in the correct direction fairly quickly if you can.
This may take two people or you may have to tape your motor leads to the power cord.
Does it go to ~10 ohms?
What I am trying to do is simulate the motor running so the centrifugal switch closes. |
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