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Originally Posted by: denman  Ok on auto dry...unpluged the unit and it read 0 from TM to WB
This looks OK
I did test the W,T,TM too ( don't know if needed but all 0)
Could not relate this back to the wiring diagram.
Sounds like the dryer is playing with you.
Unplug the unit.
Try to move the components as little as possible.
I would place one lead on the heater red wire right hand side (re: wiring diagram). I think it should have a single red wire. Leave the meter lead here for the following tests. Use a low meter scale re 200 ohms.
Then measure to the left side, should be approximately 10 ohms.
If OK
Then to the left side of the HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side or the OPERATING THERMOSTAT, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side of the THERMAL CUTOFF NOT RESETTABLE, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side of the TIME SWITCH 2 (Black L1 on the timer), should be ~10 ohms.
You have now checked almost the entire heater circuit path.
If all OK, all the is left is the centrifugal switch.
Though my gut says heater coil. What can happen is a break in the coil. It opens when it heats up and then closes again when the coil cools down. But this is just a gut feeling.
Hopefully you will find the bad component with the above checks.
If not get back and we will have to check the centrifugal switch.
This must be done with power to the unit (motor running) so is a tad dangerous.
That is why I have not included it here. All tested as you said it should
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Does all tested OK include the motor's centrifugal switch test in my post today at 10:37 AM.
If it does, re: switch closed when motor spun!!!
Test the voltage at the plug just to make sure there is not something weird happening with the power.
Then plug the unit in
You should have heat!!! |
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sorry last post was not including the 1045 post you had made.....it reads open.....no 10ohms
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the 2 outside wires on the plugin....L1 L2 unpluged turning the drum it read open....think i got it right
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Problem is either a broken wire or the centrifugal switch.
First I would check the wires from the line cord to the centrifugal switch and centrifugal switch to the heater for continuity
A common area for problems is the terminal strip that the line cord attaches to. Wires often overheat and burn out here.
If OK
The next test is with power to see if the centrifugal switch is closing.
I have been trying to avoid this one.
BE VERY CAREFUL. 240 volts is lethal.
With the unit unplugged
You have to attach your meter across the switch.
Perhaps at the left hand side of the heater and the terminal strip OR at the switch itself.
Set the meter to an AC volts scale that is higher than 240.
Plug the unit in.
You should see 240 volts
Start the unit.
You should see 0 volts
If not the switch is shot and you need a new motor. |
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wife said life insurance is paid....im going in
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no 240....one side of my 240 wall socket is only 20v! stupid plug is not always 240! this better b it ha ha cuz this just got not funny....i have checked 5 or 6 times....is the motor 120v or 240v?
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The motor is 120 volts but the heater is 240 volts.
Also in timed dry the timer motor runs off of 120, in auto modes it runs off the 240.
It is not that uncommon to loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Turn the breaker off/on slowly and recheck your voltage.
If still no good you have an electrical wiring/breaker problem.
Yes is is sort of ha ha but more like the bully on the Simpson's ha ha. |
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called my uncle who is a electrician....killed power, then pulled the cover off the wall socket. the leg that was giving me low V was lose a little...got a solid 240 at the dryer now! ill put the drum and all the goodies in and test....:cool:
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ITS ALIVE! put new plug in and found the breaker and its nice a toasty:D
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