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Gene  
#1541 Posted : Wednesday, May 23, 2012 7:50:41 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: pixelriffic Go to Quoted Post
...I wonder if it's best at this point just to get a new control board?...

...Or should the heater and sensor be tested?...


Maytag designed special frost kit due to complains on such problems. This kit includes the new control board as well and it comes with the installation instructions.

It would not hurt to check these parts.

- The frost kit Part number: 12002754
Part number: 12002754



Gene.
Brac  
#1542 Posted : Thursday, May 24, 2012 4:51:45 AM(UTC)
Brac

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Gene,
Any thoughts on my problem, it seems to be staying in range however with the fresh food dial in the position it's in I have no adjustment. Should I return this part and start shopping for a new fridge?
Thanks
Brac
GeneL56  
#1543 Posted : Thursday, May 24, 2012 9:59:15 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene, I installed the new thermostat yesterday afternoon. After I turned the power back on, no matter how high or low I set it, the fridge would not turn on. So I wiggled/pulled/pushed every connection I could find and finally the fridge started cooling. Since then, it has worked fine and stays within the temp range I have it set for. Now I am wondering if the problem with old thermostat was just a loose connection? I have viewed the "continuity testing" section of the forum and will eventually test the old thermostat.
FYI for those wondering how the old thermostat comes out: the only tricky parts for me were: separating the dial from the thermostat: once you have the thermostat/dial separated from the housing, pull straight down on the dial: it is just a tension-clamp attachment. AND, the coil wrapped around the plastic tub at the end of the long wire: how to get that off of its holder: take down the whole plate/assembly from the fridge ceiling--this is not difficult, you just unhinge it from the back brackets; no need to disconnect anything other than the thermostat---then pry the old coil/plastic tub out of its socket--also easy.
Gene  
#1544 Posted : Thursday, May 24, 2012 12:49:43 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Brac,

That's what I received from one of our experts: "...a solution for anyone who might have the same problem I had after installing the new control box kit. My initial problem was with the damper periodically "sticking" open and freezing the refrigerator contents. There were no other problems. I purchased the control box kit and after installation, the refrigerator worked, but the damper continuously cycled open and closed. After 4 or 5 days, the freezer still worked, but the fridge would warm up because the evaporator coil would freeze up and block air flow (wasn't defrosting). The cause - the offset 3-prong (limit switch) plug on the damper connections was not connected properly. Apparently, the factory chimp missed one of the blade terminals when making the plug connection. The damper cycled because it didn't "know" what position it was in, and the action fooled the ADC into never activating the defrost system. I plugged it in correctly, and am back in business."

This problem is not exactly what you had but the cause (and fix) can be very similar.

Gene.
Brac  
#1545 Posted : Thursday, May 31, 2012 4:12:38 PM(UTC)
Brac

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Gene,
We've been going along for about a week, with the temp in the normal range. Then today the fridge starts getting warm, I reach in back and notice there is very little air flow. So as you just guessed the coil was frozen. I defrosted with a blow dryer, now I'm trying to figure out how this relates to the other issue? (which was dealt with by replacing the control box)
Thanks
Brac
KevCanDoIt  
#1546 Posted : Friday, June 1, 2012 1:09:26 PM(UTC)
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Reviewed Gene's comments, I found out that my frig has an adaptive timer and not a mechanical one. I have cold air blowing from the vent and the warm air return is not blocked. I think my next try is replacing the adaptive timer (pc Board). Does this sound logical or is there a way to test it before spending the money?

Thanks to all for your input,
Gene  
#1547 Posted : Friday, June 1, 2012 7:16:13 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Brac,

You have to check the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater for continuity. Also check their wires.

Gene.
Gene  
#1548 Posted : Friday, June 1, 2012 7:17:50 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: KevCanDoIt Go to Quoted Post
Reviewed Gene's comments, I found out that my frig has an adaptive timer and not a mechanical one. I have cold air blowing from the vent and the warm air return is not blocked. I think my next try is replacing the adaptive timer (pc Board). Does this sound logical or is there a way to test it before spending the money?

Thanks to all for your input,


Did you check the evaporator coils for any frost build up?

What is the complete model of the refrigerator?

Gene.
NascarFan24  
#1549 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 9:17:25 AM(UTC)
NascarFan24

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Can't find the blueprints to locate the "Defrost Timer" and "Removal of back panel in the freezer. Is this on the inside or the outside of the unit ?

Thanks in advance for the help !:confused:
Gene  
#1550 Posted : Wednesday, June 6, 2012 1:14:17 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: NascarFan-24 Go to Quoted Post
Can't find the blueprints to locate the "Defrost Timer" and "Removal of back panel in the freezer. Is this on the inside or the outside of the unit ?

Thanks in advance for the help !:confused:


What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

What exactly is wrong with it?

Gene.
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