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Gene  
#301 Posted : Thursday, March 5, 2009 12:19:59 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: davidlwallace Go to Quoted Post
...can you please explain the relationship between the defrost timer and the defrost thermostat? My current understanding of my defrost timer is that it is a clock that runs on 8.5 hour intervals to switch the defrost cycle on; which would turn on the defrost heater; which then runs for 35 minutes timed by the defrost timer. So, how does the defrost thermostat have a role in the defrost cycle if the defrost timer is the switching governor?...

...Regarding your #3 above: since my first post, I've had ice on the condenser coils rather than snow. Also, I've only been focused on figuring out which of the 3 defrost components is the issue, and have not been led to consider any other parts or systems. But your #3 above leads me to believe that you think my problem is other than my defrost system...


Hi David,

Sorry for the delay. You were right saying: "...my defrost timer... is a clock that runs on 8.5 hour intervals to switch the defrost cycle on; which would turn on the defrost heater; which then runs for 35 minutes timed by the defrost timer".

The defrost thermostat controls the temperature during the defrost cycle and turns the power to the defrost heater "off" as soon as the temperature rises to the proper level to prevent overheating.

The ice on the evaporator coils can be: a) if the refrigerator had not been fully defrosted (defrost cycle has been interrupted before all snow melt) and partially melt snow turned into ice; or b) if the compressor has low capacity (very hard to diagnose).

Gene.
CoutureChiq  
#302 Posted : Thursday, March 5, 2009 1:26:50 PM(UTC)
CoutureChiq

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Originally Posted by: CoutureChiq Go to Quoted Post
There is a fan in a duct connected to the back panel of the freezer. (I think this is an evaporator fan) This fan sits above the holes that the cold air to the FFC flows through. This fan is not spinning. Could it be the motor for this fan?

We removed the back panel - there is no ice buildup. The air ducts are not blocked. When we open the freezer door, we can feel the cold air flowing to the FFC. As soon as we close the freezer door, the air flow slows almost to a complete stop.

Edit: I just looked at the refrigerator in my workplace. It also has a fan in the back of the freezer, and when I open the door, this fan is on and spinning. My home refrigerator's same fan was is no longer spinning.


Gene, can you please help?

Thank you
Gene  
#303 Posted : Thursday, March 5, 2009 1:49:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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The fan motor in the freezer (evaporator fan) should run at the same time as the compressor is "on". If it does not then the fan motor is bad and has to be replaced.

- The part number for the evaporator fan motor is AP4364011

Gene.
CoutureChiq  
#304 Posted : Thursday, March 5, 2009 1:52:15 PM(UTC)
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Thank you so much GENE. That was what we suspected. We will replace the motor and let you know how it turns out!

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
The fan motor in the freezer (evaporator fan) should run at the same time as the compressor is "on". If it does not then the fan motor is bad and has to be replaced.

- The part number for the evaporator fan motor is AP4364011

Gene.
Strom  
#305 Posted : Sunday, March 8, 2009 9:37:31 AM(UTC)
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Gene,
I have this exact problem with my Maytag Bottom Freezer Ref Mod MBF2256KEW. Schematics don't show me where the Defrost Timer is located.
Can you advise me?
Thanks
Strom
Gene  
#306 Posted : Sunday, March 8, 2009 3:49:58 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Strom,

There is no defrost timer in your refrigerator. The defrost cycle controls by the electronic control board (#5 on the diagram).

You can find the complete instructions in the Service manual.

Here are the break down diagrams and the parts list for the Maytag refrigerator Model MBF2256KEW

Gene.
Alan H  
#307 Posted : Wednesday, March 11, 2009 8:52:56 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator &#8211; the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag &#8211; it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one &#8211; a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the &#8220;search&#8221; button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step&#8230;

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it&#8217;s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it&#8217;s frozen because if it&#8217;s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

Gene,
Have a brand new Frigidaire side by side.2 weeks old. Refrigerator side isn't cooling, and has never cooled, freezer works fine. Store wants to send out a repairman. I want an exchange-- don't want problems down the road. Whats your opinion?
Gene  
#308 Posted : Wednesday, March 11, 2009 2:28:37 PM(UTC)
Gene

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As far as I know there suppose to be three repairs on the same problem before exchange.

Gene.
mrancou1  
#309 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 2:10:58 PM(UTC)
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Hi Gene:

I have a GE Artica side-by-side Model: PSS29MGMBWW (which I now know has a colorful reputation for problems). A couple of years ago I had an issue where the symptoms I was seeing matched the description of this post. The problem turned out to be a physically broken damper that regulates the cold air entering from the freezer (common I guess on this model.) I ended up ordering the kit that contained the whole assembly and that corrected the problem up until yesterday that is. The same symptoms have reappeared.

I came across your forum post (thinking that the damper couldn't have broken again in such a short amount of time) and I took a look at the evap coil and while there was some frost on it there wasn't much and I do not think that the amount of frost on there would prevent airflow from moving across it. For the heck of it I decided to pull apart the damper assembly in the fresh food side anyway and have a look. I discovered that the damper was completely closed but not physically broken like it was before. I can see and hear the small pancake fan in that assembly running too. I'm assuming that helps to pull more cold air into that section because of the big loss of cooling when the door is open. My question is if you think that the damper motor itself has broken or is it possibly due to another component (thermistor, switch, etc.) that has failed causing the damper to stay closed. Can I test the operation of the damper to see if the motor is bad?

I manually pushed the damper open about a third and then put the whole damper assembly back in place and I can feel plenty of cold air moving out of the exit port now so I'm assuming that probably means I do not have a defrost issue on the freezer side. I'd just hate to order another damper assembly only to find out it's another component elsewhere. I just need help determining what else to look for if it's potentially being cause by something else. Thanks for your time!
Gene  
#310 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 5:47:19 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Push the damper halfway closed. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board. Set the temperature controls to 5 and 5 and reconnect power. See if the damper door moves after immediately reconnecting power? (You have 10 seconds to check).

If it did then verify thermistors are within proper range using the temperature resistance chart (attached to the reply).

If the resistance is within a range then replace the main control board.

If the resistance is wrong then check the wiring connections. If wiring is OK, replace the thermistor.

If the damper door did not move then unplug harness connector at damper. Measure resistance between the yellow and red/black wires and between the
white/brown and blue/yellow wires. Normally it suppose to be approximately 420 Ohms for both readings.

If the reading is incorrect then replace the damper.

If the reading is correct then unplug "J3" connector from the main control
board. Unplug the refrigerator to reset, then reconnect power. There suppose to be 6VDC between the pins "J4-3" (common) and each of the pins "J3-1", "J3-2", "J3-3" and "J3-4" (you have 10 seconds to check).

If any of the reading is incorrect then replace the main control board.

If all of readings are good then replace the damper.

Here are the break down diagrams and Replacement parts for GE PSS29MGMBWW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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Thermistor Values.doc (43kb) downloaded 40 time(s).
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