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Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
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TIMMO  
#311 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 6:13:39 PM(UTC)
TIMMO

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I Have A Question,i Have A Maytag Refrig #msd2957aew .if I Test The Defrost Heater Element,which Has A Thermostat In Line As Per The Diagram,and It Test Good/no Opens For Resistance,how Can I Test The Adaptive Defrost Controller Assembly,if It Doesnt Have A Defrost Timer That U Can Turn And Click/on To Test.???:) Do U Just Have To Assume That Is The Problem.??? IS THIS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL AND BRAND, THE ADC COMPONENT?
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Gene  
#312 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 6:26:52 PM(UTC)
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You are right. If there is a problem with the defrost system and you are sure there is nothing wrong with the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat then there is nothing else to fail, but the ADC.

- The part number for the ADC is AP4070403

Gene.
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mrancou1  
#313 Posted : Tuesday, March 17, 2009 6:49:35 PM(UTC)
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Thanks! I'll give these steps a try and report back.
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mrancou1  
#314 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 2:09:52 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Push the damper halfway closed. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board. Set the temperature controls to 5 and 5 and reconnect power. See if the damper door moves after immediately reconnecting power? (You have 10 seconds to check).

If it did then verify thermistors are within proper range using the temperature resistance chart (attached to the reply).

If the resistance is within a range then replace the main control board.

If the resistance is wrong then check the wiring connections. If wiring is OK, replace the thermistor.

If the damper door did not move then unplug harness connector at damper. Measure resistance between the yellow and red/black wires and between the
white/brown and blue/yellow wires. Normally it suppose to be approximately 420 Ohms for both readings.

If the reading is incorrect then replace the damper.

If the reading is correct then unplug "J3" connector from the main control
board. Unplug the refrigerator to reset, then reconnect power. There suppose to be 6VDC between the pins "J4-3" (common) and each of the pins "J3-1", "J3-2", "J3-3" and "J3-4" (you have 10 seconds to check).

If any of the reading is incorrect then replace the main control board.

If all of readings are good then replace the damper.

Here are the break down diagrams and Replacement parts for GE PSS29MGMBWW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.


Gene: I checked the damper and it did in fact move to full open when I reconnected the power. I did not check the Thermistor readings as I didn't immediately see how to access the connector leads but on a hunch I just put it all back together and gave it a while and so far it appears to be working just fine. Refrigerator temp is approximately 35 degrees. I also took the opportunity to blow out the condensor coil with compressed air to make sure there was good airflow there too. Is it possible that the control board simply needed to be reset or is it fairly certain that whatever caused this issue is still lurking. How you you gain access to the thermistor connectors to get the readings? Are they connected directly to the control board?
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mhgeneral  
#315 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 2:10:35 PM(UTC)
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I have the GE GSS23QSTA side-by-side refrigerator and it is not cooling well because of frost build up on the back panel of the freezer. It appears that the defrost system is not functioning properly. I have tried powering it off and letting the frost to melt on its own, after that it works fine for 2-3 weeks after which the frost becomes visible again. How would I diagnose where the problem is and what part has to be replaced? Does anyone have a service manual for this model?
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Gene  
#316 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:39:56 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: mrancou1 Go to Quoted Post
...Is it possible that the control board simply needed to be reset or is it fairly certain that whatever caused this issue is still lurking...

...How you you gain access to the thermistor connectors to get the readings? Are they connected directly to the control board?


Reset would not help. Sooner or later it will fail again.

You can check the thermistor two ways:

1. Locate the sensor grille (#234 on the diagram) and remove it. Pull the sensor out.

2. Open the control panel and look for the tech sheets inside. Look on the wiring diagram for the connector and pin number for the sensor.

Gene.
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Gene  
#317 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:43:28 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: mhgeneral Go to Quoted Post
...How would I diagnose where the problem is and what part has to be replaced? Does anyone have a service manual for this model?


You can find the complete instructions on page 3 of this thread.

Here are the break down diagrams and Replacement parts for GE GSS23QSTASS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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mrancou1  
#318 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 5:39:39 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Gene. I'll check them out for sure. I see behind the kick plate is the wiring diagram.
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denem  
#319 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 9:02:49 PM(UTC)
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what if the freezer is warmer by a lot and the fridge is only warmer by a little? there is no frost on the back panel and air is blowing into the freezer and fridge. both are set to as cool as possible...need some advice!

gibson model MRT15CNCW2, serial LA53906236
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denem  
#320 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 9:03:38 PM(UTC)
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what if the freezer is warmer by a lot and the fridge is only warmer by a little? there is no frost on the back panel of the freezer and air is blowing into the freezer and fridge. both are set to as cool as possible...need some advice!

gibson model MRT15CNCW2, serial LA53906236
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