Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/27/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Ice maker makes ice & dispeses water but will not dispense ice. When I open freezer door, turn off door switch and depress ice lever the solenoid engages but the motor doesn't turn. I took out the motor unit & bench tested it and the motor works so I assume the motor is not getting 120V through the harness. What could cause this?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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If the solenoid if firing, that means the switch at the dispenser is actuating when the paddle is pressed. I would look at the wiring around the motor and possibly behind the dispenser to make sure nothing is loose, shorted, or broken. The blue wire goes straight from the switch to the motor and then the other side of the motor picks up a common white neutral to complete the circuit. Start with the connectors and look for a pin not making contact and then check your wiring.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/27/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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I checked the voltages to the motor (blue & white wires) whiled plugged-in and got: 2V with freezer door open, 9V with door open and switch depressed and 19V with switch and paddle depressed. ? I get 120v to the light(yellow & white wires) as should be. All pins and connections seem fine. Where to look next?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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Those look like phantom voltages your meter is picking up. Try looking at the bottom hinge of the freezer door where the wiring harness comes through. Look for a broken or pinched wire. Basically you are loosing your source voltage somewhere and it's a matter of working back toward the source until you find where it is missing.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/27/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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KUDOS BRIAN! Those weren't phamtom voltages though - just what was able to get through. I reinstalled the motor, closed the freezer door and depressed the paddle while pulling on the wiring bundle at the bottom corner of the freezer door and the motor fired-up for a second then POP! The blue wire is totally severed now(I revealed by cutting back the sheathing). Now how do I fix this? It's about one inch from the bottom of the door and I'm going to try and solder it but don't know if I'll have enough wire.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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This was a problem with some of these doors due to the wire bundle being zip tied resulting in the wire bundle flexing when the door was opened. The best way would be to solder the wire back together and cover it with heat shrink or electrical tape. The only other option is to buy a new door as the wire harness is foamed into place during production. Once you make the repair and put it back together, remove any zip ties that restrict the movement of the wire bundle from the hinge or from behind the grill.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/27/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Got it soldered, shrink wrapped and taped. Works! Noted a broken zip tie down there. You know what you're talking about. Thanks, Mike.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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