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I just finished replacing the thermal cut-off and hi-limit kit, part #AP3094244, in my dryer but it still isn't heating up. What else could it be? p.s. I didn't use the red/white wire that came in the package. Would that make a difference?
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See the attachment for the wiring diagram. [COLOR="DarkRed"] I just finished replacing the thermal cut-off and hi-limit kit, part #AP3094244, in my dryer but it still isn't heating up. What else could it be?[/COLOR] I cannot say you have to troubleshoot it.. Why did you replace it? Did one of the parts measure bad? Have you checked the power to the unit? The heating coil requires the full 240 volts. Have you checked the other parts in the heater circuit for continuity? [COLOR="DarkRed"] p.s. I didn't use the red/white wire that came in the package. Would that make a difference?[/COLOR] Again I cannot say. It depends how you wired it in, see the wiring diagram. The kit is universal so the red wire is not required on all units. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
I just finished replacing the thermal cut-off and hi-limit kit, part #AP3094244, in my dryer but it still isn't heating up. What else could it be?[/COLOR]
I cannot say you have to troubleshoot it..
Why did you replace it?
Did one of the parts measure bad?
Have you checked the power to the unit? The heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
Have you checked the other parts in the heater circuit for continuity?
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
p.s. I didn't use the red/white wire that came in the package. Would that make a difference?[/COLOR]
Again I cannot say.
It depends how you wired it in, see the wiring diagram.
The kit is universal so the red wire is not required on all units. I decided to replace it after researching the q&a forums on this website; this was the same advice given over and over for my same symptons. My dryer drum turns, air is blowing sufficiently from the dryer to the vent, and from the vent to outside (no blockages). There is sufficient power to the unit. I have not checked any other parts in the heater circuitry. I put everything in as was directed on the diagram. I did not replace my red/white wire and the new one, so not sure it that's the problem?? I wouldn't think keeping the old wire still attached would be the problem; I thought it might be more like a heating element, or fuse?? Sorry for the initial vague message, but appreciate any advice you can give me.
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Since all you did was replace the devices not replacing the wire itself should not be required.
Only way to properly troubleshoot is with a meter.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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