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rkelly51  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, October 19, 2011 10:05:25 AM(UTC)
rkelly51

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Hello all. I have 20 something Maytag A482 top load washing machine. It has had the water control valve replaced last year and worked great until recently. It will not fill when the cycle knob is rotated to the start position. It does fill when the knob is moved to the rinse position and it spins as well as drains, however it will not agitate. When I pulled the control panel off, there was a grey wire that was not connected to the timer. I reconnected it and there was no change. It worked great up until recently and cant think of a reason why the wire was disconnected.
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, October 19, 2011 11:04:58 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: rkelly51 Go to Quoted Post
Hello all. I have 20 something Maytag A482 top load washing machine. It has had the water control valve replaced last year and worked great until recently. It will not fill when the cycle knob is rotated to the start position. It does fill when the knob is moved to the rinse position and it spins as well as drains, however it will not agitate. When I pulled the control panel off, there was a grey wire that was not connected to the timer. I reconnected it and there was no change. It worked great up until recently and cant think of a reason why the wire was disconnected.


Rkelly,
Are you sure you installed the gray wire on terminal # 7 on the water level switch and the "SW" terminal at the timer.
Do you have a multimeter, so we can check the timer circuits and the fill valve solenoid resistances. Or voltage to the same ?

My guess is, you may have a bad contact in the fill increment of the timer, or a water temperature switch issue.

Part number: AP4024441
rkelly51  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, October 19, 2011 12:04:58 PM(UTC)
rkelly51

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Will check the temp switch
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, October 19, 2011 1:54:43 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: rkelly51 Go to Quoted Post
Will check the temp switch


OK,

If the switch circuit checks OK, we're back to the timer or a bad fill valve.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
rkelly51  
#5 Posted : Thursday, October 20, 2011 6:35:06 AM(UTC)
rkelly51

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The temp switch seems to be working ok. What voltage should be going to the valve? Is there a wiring diagram for the timer?
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Thursday, October 20, 2011 8:30:17 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: rkelly51 Go to Quoted Post
The temp switch seems to be working ok. What voltage should be going to the valve? Is there a wiring diagram for the timer?


Kelly,

Voltage to the fill valve, will be 120 VAC (line voltage).
Orange/Black to White Green is the hot water valve, and will have 120 VAC when hot or warm fill is selected.
Blue/Black to White/ Green is the cold water valve and will have 120 VAC when cold or warm fill is selected.

We don't have a PDF file we can transmit to you, but, when you lower the control panel to access the timer, you should find it inside the control console.
( to remove the console, remove the two inner phillips head screws in the front corners of the console top trim, and pull or lean the top towards you, and the bottom will release from the housing).

To test the timer circuits in the fill increment :
Unplug the power cord, set the timer dial to the start of the regular wash cycle and pull the timer dial out.
(you may want to remove the timer, some of the terminals will be on the inside portion of the timer, and may be hard to access).
At the timer, with the wires removed from the terminals, you want to check for a "closed" circuit between :
Terminal 7t(wht/blu) and 7a (Purple).
Terminal 7t(wht/blu) and 15 (brown).
Terminal 21(blue) and 32(red).
Terminal 32(red) and L2(wht/green).
Terminal 22(yellow) and 9(white).
If all these timer circuits check OK, the timer is not at fault.
Check the water level switch:
Disconnect the air dome hose(1/4 tube) from the switch,
Disconnect the gray (terminal #7) from the switch.
Check for a "closed" circuit between terminal 7(gray) and 15(brown).
Check for an "open" circuit between terminal 7 and 16(yellow/black).
Also while its disconnected, blow into the 1/4 tube, to clear any possible clogs or debris, that may have accumulated over the years.
Normally, a water valve solenoid ranges between 500 and 1000 Ω s resistance, but thats not always a good indicator. If everything checks OK, replace the fill valve.

:) :) :)
rkelly51  
#7 Posted : Saturday, October 22, 2011 11:40:54 AM(UTC)
rkelly51

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Checked the timer iaw the previous post and it seems to be ok. The level valve seems to be working.
Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Saturday, October 22, 2011 11:45:48 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: rkelly51 Go to Quoted Post
Checked the timer iaw the previous post and it seems to be ok. The level valve seems to be working.


Kelly,
What about the 120 VAC to each of the fill valve solenoids when warm water wash fill is selected ?

:) :) :)
rkelly51  
#9 Posted : Saturday, October 22, 2011 5:18:06 PM(UTC)
rkelly51

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When the timer is moved to the rinse position, there is 115vac is present. When the knob is placed at the beginning of the cycle, there is no voltage present at the valve.
Joe / APP Team  
#10 Posted : Monday, October 24, 2011 5:50:44 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: rkelly51 Go to Quoted Post
When the timer is moved to the rinse position, there is 115vac is present. When the knob is placed at the beginning of the cycle, there is no voltage present at the valve.


Kelly,
The issue has to be in the timer,
The circuits in the fill increment re routes the voltage to the water temperature switch in order to make a hot, warm, or cold fill cycle. At the rinse cycle the timer bypasses the temperature switch and feeds the voltage to the cold water solenoid.

:) :) :)
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