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Gene  
#241 Posted : Tuesday, January 6, 2009 6:23:24 PM(UTC)
Gene

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insomnio23,

Most likely the problem is a bad air diffuser (aka an air baffle). If you would like to check this part then look for the tech sheets. It could be behind the bottom grill.

The original part number 2300528 for the air diffuser has been changed by the manufacturer. The new part number is 2315515 which is APP part number AP3889289.

Gene.
Gene  
#242 Posted : Tuesday, January 6, 2009 6:26:13 PM(UTC)
Gene

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cokemanjimbo,

Replace the relay/overload and post the results. Hopefully it would solve the problem.

Gene.
morenojx  
#243 Posted : Tuesday, January 6, 2009 9:32:22 PM(UTC)
morenojx

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Hi, I also have a problem with my refrigerator - Amana ARB2217CW freezer in the bottom. Freezer seems ok but refrigerator part (upper) too warm. I opened the grill (panel) inside the freezer and there is frost in the coils. I tried resetting the defrost timer, turning it clockwise and no luck with defrosting thr coils. Any ideas? Thanks!!
Gene  
#244 Posted : Wednesday, January 7, 2009 12:13:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

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morenojx,

Just follow the instructions on the first page.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Amana refrigerator Model ARB2217CW

Gene.
jaycee  
#245 Posted : Wednesday, January 7, 2009 1:17:41 PM(UTC)
jaycee

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Hi.

Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm with icing/frost on bottom freezer and on vent on the fridge side.

I followed your troubleshooting guide but was unable to find a defrost timer for my fridge Kenmore Model 596.50002100 . I tested the heater evap and the thermostat using your method and they check out good. So now I just have to locate the other part, is it a controller board or a defrost timer? Please help.

John
CalX  
#246 Posted : Wednesday, January 7, 2009 7:06:42 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: CalX Go to Quoted Post
Hello, we're having problems with our fridge, any help is appreciated!

Model: Gibson GRS26ZRG side by side with ice maker and ice/water/light in door. "Clean and Clear ice and water filtration system" noted on door. (No extra number/letter after the ZRG on the sticker)

I probably should have realized something a couple weeks ago, I thought the fridge was running a little loud once or twice. Fast forward to last 24 hours, freezer is fine (but just a tad bit of frost covering the back wall, no thick ice or build up, but it is normally frost free), ice maker is working fine. However, the fresh food area seems about 15 degrees warmer, we noticed our milk wasn't ice cold as usual. :(

I made sure nothing was covering vent area in freezer, that seems ok. I can hear the motor (freezer??) running when the door is closed. Fresh food side, no motor/fan seems to be running.

The fridge came with our home which was a model house, it was built in 2000. The sticker on the fridge claims to have a "Platinum 10 year Warranty" but I don't believe I ever got the manual. Would this be a warranty issue? Or should I be fixing it myself? Pointers? Suggestions on what is going on?

Thanks in advance!


Hi Gene,

It looks like it was the defrost system after all, but I'm still fixing it. When I popped off the back wall there was massive ice build up on the evaporator. I'm just going ahead since I have the thing ripped apart anyway and switching out the defrost heater and thermo, the timer seems ok. I haven't been able to check the fan as you suggested but I also have that part, just in case.

The problem that I am currently having is that in switching out the thermo, I had to cut wires (per the instructions, there was no quick connect) on one side of it. That in itself isn't the issue, but there is some heat shrink sleeve that is to be placed over the crimp connector that is just not long enough to provide a water-tight seal. It was only about 1/8 inch extra on each side before heating, I figured it wasn't going to cover it, I was right. So my question is 1) what is this stuff called and 2) where can I get more? After all this hassle, I really don't want to have to go back and refix something. Also, is there anything else I can do to reinforce the area? I don't feel comfortable using electrical tape back there.

Thanks!
cokemanjimbo  
#247 Posted : Friday, January 9, 2009 5:27:37 PM(UTC)
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Well, Gene, I replaced the relay/overload and my freezer started working again. But, my fridge is still warm and not cooling. How do I get the cold air into the fridge? Does it go in by the two little foam things in the freezer? And what controls that? Your help is greatly appreciated.
jrogers  
#248 Posted : Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:20:28 PM(UTC)
jrogers

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

Your post is very informative! I have a Kenmore freezer bottom. This thread sounds exactly like what is happening to my fridge/freezer. The model # is 596.76502500. I have tested conductivity on the evaporator fan motor(failed) and the evaporator heater(passed).

My fridge/freezer has a service test mode. The freezer fan test didn't turn fan on even though I heard a click as if it was trying to turn on, the DC voltage measured 12.9. The test for the freezer thermistor revealed the freezer temp. The defrost heater and defrost circuit tested closed (How do I know if the defrost circuit should be open or closed?). I ask because the service test has two different responses (open or closed).

I am assuming the evaporator fan is the problem.? How do I know it is not the control board and or the Freezer thermistor? How do I manually test conductivity of the freezer thermistor?
Gene  
#249 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2009 1:01:39 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi John,

Sorry for the delay. There are two control boards in this refrigerator and it's hard to say which one controls the defrost cycle without the wiring diagram. If you have one and can post then it might help better.

Gene.
jrogers  
#250 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2009 1:09:48 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hi John,

Sorry for the delay. There are two control boards in this refrigerator and it's hard to say which one controls the defrost cycle without the wiring diagram. If you have one and can post then it might help better.

Gene.

Do you think, from my description it is one of the control boards? I am sorry for the long list of questions!
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