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Paul,
It is important where to place the defrost thermostat but matching the previous position exactly is not necessary. Try to look up scratches on the evaporator coil.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  John,
Your refrigerator operates by an electronics. It does not have a classic defrost timer.
Gene. Gene, I replaced my evaporator fan motor and fan didn't run even in service test mode. I checked for volts at the plug for fan and didn't get any volts, even though in test mode for evaporator fan i am told iam getteng 12.9 volts? Upon inspection of the control board plug J3 6 had a burn mark on the corrosponding side of the control board. I replaced the control board, ordered here price was a steal, and now I am getting a PE0 reading on the freezer side and 000 on the refridgerator. I have tried to enter the programing code but I can't change the numbers. What to do?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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John,
As I told you before I do not have any technical documentation for this model and guessing is not the way I would like to go. If you have it and can post it, it might help.
Gene.
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Gene -
I also have the warm refrigerator problem....I followed your directions and here is what I found - pulled back panel in freezer, and found lots of frost built up mostly on top of coil and fading about half way down the coil. The fan is running fine, but obviously i have a defrost problem. I don't see a way to manually trip my defrost however, and was wondering if there was something else I needed to do for my model to manually defrost? Also - is there a post that would guide me through the process of checking resistance if I get that far?
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Most likely the problem with your refrigerator is a faulty Adaptive Defrost Control (#13 on the break down diagram). This is most common problem with all Maytag and Jenn Air refrigerators made since about 1997. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How to check continuity with Ohmmeter. - The part number for the Adaptive Defrost Control is AP4070403Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene John,
As I told you before I do not have any technical documentation for this model and guessing is not the way I would like to go. If you have it and can post it, it might help.
Gene. gene, i can't seem to attach the documents to post. i think the attachments are too big.? is there another way i can send them to you? Thanks,
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You can decrease the size through a picture editor or you can try to upload the picture in a web storage and post the link.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene Most likely the problem with your refrigerator is a faulty Adaptive Defrost Control (#13 on the break down diagram). This is most common problem with all Maytag and Jenn Air refrigerators made since about 1997. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How to check continuity with Ohmmeter. - The part number for the Adaptive Defrost Control is AP4070403Gene. I changed it out - how long should this take to kick in and solve the problem if indeed that is what was wrong?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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If the freezer was completely defrosted then it should take about 24 hours to reach the proper temperature. If the evaporator coil is blocked with the ice then I would recommend to defrost it first.
Gene.
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Gene,
I've read your posts regarding defrost system, and am convinced this is my problem; but I'm puzzled still. First, I'm puzzled why my model # doesn't show up on any sears parts website, but model #'s that are very close do show up; so I have used parts diagrams from the very similar model# 25359482991. My original symptom was warm refrigerator, which led me to find ice on evaporator coils. I manually defrosted evap coils, then plugged back in, and it worked fine. The defrost system kicked in regularly, and I could see ice on coils melt. It worked great for a month. Yesterday, same problem reoccurred. So, I defrosted evap coils manually. I found your post on defrost system, so I located defrost timer, turned to advance until I heard click, observed defrosting evap coil, after 35 minutes, timer clicked and freezer started back up. All seems like it is working fine. However, I am confused why the ice buildup a month ago, and again yesterday. I have not done a continuity check on defrost heater because I saw the ice on the evap coil melt when in defrost mode, so it must have continuity. What is your best guess? Thanks, David.
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