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EMSbyDay  
#1191 Posted : Wednesday, May 4, 2011 5:28:38 PM(UTC)
EMSbyDay

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Hello Experts,

(Fridge Maytag MBB1956HES)
Like most other here, I started finding fridge had become barely cool, if not warm, while the freezer was way cold and frosty.

I noticed the fan on the back of fridge was running ALOT that last few days too. I checked the damper and it opens fine but wasnt getting cold air out.

I pulled off the back wall off the inside of the freezer and the whole unit was frosted/ice, looked alot like the picture a few post up.

I've been doing some reading here and I dont think I have a defrost timer (couldn't see one) and tried the forced defrost by holding fridge light switch and pressing down 3 times/releasing. F - D appeared and I pressed down once more. It then switched the freezer off and fridge to 5. I'm assuming this is the forced defrost process I could hear it doing stuff, it was making noise, but didn't really defrost much, and after about 10-15min just switched back to normal fridge/freezer operation.

I'm now doing a manual "thaw" have it all open and melting on its own.

Can you advise the next steps I should take to figure out what the problem is?

Thanks

Kevin
Gene  
#1192 Posted : Wednesday, May 4, 2011 5:37:16 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Kevin,

You may want to check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity. The defrost thermostat must be cold at the test time.

- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP4078076
EMSbyDay  
#1193 Posted : Wednesday, May 4, 2011 5:47:49 PM(UTC)
EMSbyDay

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Thanks, I have an Analog meter and have calibrated it as per the link. What kind of readings should I be looking for, and where do I take the readings?

Kevin
EMSbyDay  
#1194 Posted : Wednesday, May 4, 2011 6:17:25 PM(UTC)
EMSbyDay

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When you say the defrost thermostat must be COLD, how cold? I'm thawing the fridge right now and its room temp. Heater is colder as the coils are still frozen.

Heater reads aprox 30-40, not getting a reading from the thermostat, dunno if its busted, or if its too warm.
Gene  
#1195 Posted : Wednesday, May 4, 2011 6:33:06 PM(UTC)
Gene

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The heater seems to be good.

Place the thermostat in a glass with ice and water for about 10 minutes and then check it. The normal reading should be about 0 Ohms.

Gene.
EMSbyDay  
#1196 Posted : Wednesday, May 4, 2011 6:59:01 PM(UTC)
EMSbyDay

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Hmmmm, might be the defrost thermostat then. I've had it in cold water for over 10 min and it still has no reading.

Anything else I should check before buying a new one?

All the help is appreciated.
Gene  
#1197 Posted : Thursday, May 5, 2011 12:20:39 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: EMSbyDay Go to Quoted Post
...Anything else I should check before buying a new one?...


No, I don't think so. The new thermostat should fix the problem.

Gene.
janaschicago  
#1198 Posted : Thursday, May 5, 2011 1:04:41 PM(UTC)
janaschicago

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Hello Experts!

I am hoping one of you guys can help me as I need to save some money to buy a new (used) car.

I have a side by side Kitchenaid (model # KSCS25MTMS00) by side with digital temp controls that isn't reading the correct temp for the refrigerator side (always reads 27 degrees). Freezer side digital readout & freezer temperature are working just fine. If I leave the door open the digital reading will rise but only until I close the refrigerator door (then it resets to 27 again).

Is this a Thermostat problem?

Becky
Gene  
#1199 Posted : Thursday, May 5, 2011 1:28:01 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Becky,

What is the real temperature in the refrigerator?

Enter the Service Diagnostic mode as described in the attached tech sheet and test the thermistors. Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSCS25MTMS00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
Wiring Sheet - W10142175 - KSCS25MTMS00.pdf (822kb) downloaded 43 time(s).
t_mil  
#1200 Posted : Thursday, May 5, 2011 8:15:01 PM(UTC)
t_mil

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My evaporator in the refrigerator will ice up approximately every 30 days. I have done some troubleshooting, but stopped when I identified a part number on the motherboard that didn't seem to match up.
First, I have tested the thermistors and have the following readings from the plug that connects to the motherboard shortly after unpluging the power:
FF Evap - 16.2 increasing to 17.3
FF - 16.3K
FZ - 42.8
FZ Evap - 60.9

Using the temp control panel I have run the following diagnostics:
1 - 0 - I heard the dampers open/close
1 - 1 - I heard all 3 internal fans cycle through
1 - 4 - I have seen the orange glow of the defrost heater in the freezer, which turns off after approximately 15 min.

0 -2 - passed
0 - 4 - passed
0 - 7 - all pass

I have also verified the FF thermistor and the FF Evap by putting in to ice water and room temp water and observed the resistance change.

I have felt the 3 way valve move after plugging in the power.

It currently has a mainboard WR49X10147 installed. Sticker on back says to use WR55X10156 and current part from GE is WR49X10152.

Other symptoms are the temperature on the digital readout says 34 but a thermometer I have placed in the refrigerator reads 40 degrees.
Right now, there is ice around the styrofoam block where the FF evap line enters ther refrigerator.

Not having confidence in the mainboard part number I bought the WR49X10152 mainboard from this site and was sent the WR49X10147 board in a box labeled WR49X10152.

I have asked to have another board sent to me and that should be here in a few days.
Is there anything other then the mainboard that I should be looking at right now? Is there any reason to test the defrost termostat or anything else?

What about the ice on the lines entering the refrigerator? Also the freezer is consistently at 0 degrees.

Thanks for all the info that has got me this far.
Tony
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