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Hi, I have just repaired my Maytag fridge/freezer due to it having a a faulty heating element. Its been working fine for the past 4 weeks or so then the fridge side has become to not to get as cool as it should again (its a side by side one) I think that I have left the metal exposed on each of the 'sockets' that fit the element into the rest of the wireing. I now fear that this has cased the element to short again as a slight build up of ice and this may have linked to both sockets. This is a big presumption, as I dont understand why after 4 weeks the problem is back again. Its the only thing I could think of. Could I be right in thinking ? Has it knackered the new heating element by shorting it out (i.e. my mistake that I did not ensure that there was no metal exposed on each of the sockets) ? Its definately freezing on the back pannel again so something is wrong
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Any kind of electrical connectors/terminals must be insulated. Otherwise it can cause a short due to the ice is very good electric conductor. In any way the heating element has to be checked for continuity before you make any decision.
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
Gene.
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Gene
Your posts have excellent info in them.
I have a five year old Amana french door (AFC2033DRQ), which a couple of days ago had the refrigerator part stopped cooling (warmed up to room temp), while the freezer stayed cold. However, this morning, the refrigerator part is cool again. I am confused. Any comments?
Luckily I have a second refrigerator to store our food.
Thanks for any info.
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Richard,
It's hard to say why it did it. As long as it's working properly, nothing can be done.
Keep monitor it and as soon as you'll see something wrong, post detailed description on the problem.
Gene.
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Gene, I have an Amana ARB220ZCW. Refrigerator was warm. I opened the back panel (see picture), I manually advanced the defrost timer, cooling process stopped, and everything started to melt. About half way through the process I heard a sizzle sound (sound of water hitting a fry pan). All of the ice melted in about 30 minutes. Do I only need a defrost timer? Or, do you recommend that I look into something else. Thank you. Max21 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Any kind of electrical connectors/terminals must be insulated. Otherwise it can cause a short due to the ice is very good electric conductor. In any way the heating element has to be checked for continuity before you make any decision.
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
Gene. Sorry for the delay in repying Ive been trying to find the model number. The closest Ive got is the Maytag GLSS2028GB - all internal and external features are the same except that its gloss black ! Ive now insulated the terminals and had hoped that the heating element would defrost the ice build up on its own. Its not doing so. I therefore conclude that its still not working - my fear being that because I did not insulate I have now broken the element by short circuting - is this possible ? Should I try defrosting the ice to see if it works or is there clearly still a problem ?
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Originally Posted by: cash-matters ...Should I try defrosting the ice to see if it works or is there clearly still a problem ? How are you going to "see" it? The only way for the proper diagnosis in such situation is the continuity test. You have to have a simple ohmmeter to do it. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene How are you going to "see" it?
The only way for the proper diagnosis in such situation is the continuity test. You have to have a simple ohmmeter to do it.
Gene. OK - its time to buy an ohmmeter then. There should be some resistance in the heating element right ?
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Originally Posted by: cash-matters OK - its time to buy an ohmmeter then. There should be some resistance in the heating element right ? Yes, it should read 15-30 Ohms. The model number you posted does not come up. Gene.
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