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Okay, I just tested the P2 red wire. It doesn't have any juice when I turn on the oven. So I guess that means I need a new control board.
Now, one thing is bothering me...you said the red wire is P2-4, but I believe it was in the P2-3 position. I'm not 100% positive, I just remember it being off-center before I pulled it out, and the P2-4 position is centered. Are you sure it's supposed to be at P2-4? My memory in this case could easily be wrong -- I didn't pay too much attention before I pulled it out, since in my mind I already knew it was P2-4.
If it was at P2-3, could this be why this is going to be my second control board in my 6 years of owning this stove? Or does this control board just have a history of being problematic?
Thanks, Ching
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There are three terminals in a row also marked as Broil, Bake and L1. The terminal I'm talking about is the Bake terminal. I believe there is no P2-3 terminal.
If there is no 120VAC between the Bake terminal on the control board and ground while the control calls for Bake then the control board has to be replaced.
Gene.
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Oh, that's the P1-2 terminal. The Bake terminal there does have 120VAC. In the close-up picture of the back of the control board ( AP3180904) you can see the P1 terminals you're talking about on the far right. The P2 terminals are just to the left of the big block with the yellow stripe. So now I'm in trouble...where did I pull that red wire out of? Was it P2-4 or P2-3? Do you have access to a wiring diagram? Ching Originally Posted by: Gene There are three terminals in a row also marked as Broil, Bake and L1. The terminal I'm talking about is the Bake terminal. I believe there is no P2-3 terminal.
If there is no 120VAC between the Bake terminal on the control board and ground while the control calls for Bake then the control board has to be replaced.
Gene.
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Try to track down this red wire and see where it goes. Unfortunately I do not have the exact wiring diagram for this model. Sears does not publish them on-line but it must come with the range.
If there is 120VAC at the Bake terminal then the problem is a bad spark module.
Gene.
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Okay, I found my tech sheet, and figured out where the wire goes. One problem solved.
I got my new spark module yesterday, and installed it, but the oven still won't light. Then I tested all the voltages specified in the tech sheet across different terminals, for both the new one and the old one, and they're identical. So it looks like the spark module is fine.
One new bit of information: when I turn on Bake, I hear the control board click, and then hum very quietly for a while. When I turn on Broil, I hear the control board click and hum just like for Bake, but then, after about 5 or 10 seconds, I hear two very loud clicks from the valve where the gas line comes into the back of the stove. Does that mean anything?
Ching
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Ching,
Can you post the wiring diagram?
Gene.
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Here you go. chingliu attached the following image(s):
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Check the ignition electrode at the Bake burner and the wire from this electrode to the spark module.
Switch around the wires between the J3 & J4 terminals on the spark module.
While monitoring the Bake ignition electrode push the Broil button on the control. Did it spark?
While monitoring the Broil ignition electrode push the Bake button on the control. Did it spark?
Gene.
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The ignition electrodes both look fine. The wires to the electrodes have continuity. With J3 and J4 switched, there are no sparks at either electrode. In fact, neither the J3 nor J4 terminals produce any voltage at all when bake and/or broil are turned on.
I just realized that we had a power outage just before the oven went bad -- maybe we got a power surge that fried something? I currently have a new control board and a new spark module in the oven, so it's not those. Is there a fuse somewhere in the oven that could have been burnt out?
Ching
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I've been thinking, could the problem be with a gas valve or regulator?
Ching
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